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Monday, 17 September 2018


September 16th

Plan A- Morning at Woden, afternoon at Quayfoot with a Mandrake Mission

However the forecast spell of overnight rain turned out into something more biblical.  After a coffee and buttie at the cafe wandered out to check out the conditions up and behind at

Shepherds Crag

Brown Slabs a bit damp low down but fine higher up where the sun and wind were doing their bit.

CB cuts a typically colourful postion on the way to the belay on Brown Slabs Arete


All routes descent by abseil

Walk off wet and treacherous

First visit to Shepherds Crag -  twenty years ago
on September 13th 1998
Introduction to lead multi-pitch climbing with NP, DP, JW, WA and Harry.  Some pictures from that day.


NP motivating a nervous AT

"Come on
big fellah"

Pretty wet that day as well

Worked our way up the grades....
Great climbing

And Finally

CB disappeared for ten minutes up under Little C and came back with this - apparently there are rich pickings to be had up there.....

Monday, 10 September 2018

Drive in Saturday

September 1st

Drive to Hove
Meal at Urchin with M and V
Off to Portslade for a Bowie Party

Songs included
Man who sold
Let’s Dance
Boys keep swinging
China Girl
Golden Years
Space Oddity
Modern Love
Life on Mars
Five Years
Young Americans. 
Where are we now

Friday, 31 August 2018

Kyloe Stylo

Thursday 30 August

CB back from Catalunya and raring to go.  A quick fire WhatsApp exchange and we were all set, Northumberland said the man so I made a point of studying routes done and to do at Bowden.  That was a total waste of time as the man announced that todays venue would be


A few parties were grouping up on arrival so we made it snappy up to the first outcrops and set up camp in the Saints Wall area.

Parity (L)

Trinity (R)

Another climber on Trinity
Same helmet and shirt as AT so it will do!

 © andymoin UKC

CB at the same move

CB gets gear on the top wall on St Ivel

Four good routes at this sector then on to the next buttress for the much anticipated lead on Elevator

Unfortunately AT's lift only went to the first floor.  Having placed the crucial gear returned to belay level and swapped leads.   CB presses the right buttons to  move on up.  AT follows in good order.  Next time......

CB in the mood

Coldstream Corner requires power, determination and technique.

Unfortunately AT lacking one or more of these ingredients so had to settle for a supper of Pedigree Chum.


Still - brought the gear up for his master.

Conifer Direct used to be overwhelmed by the eponymous tree.

Now it sees the light and is a worthwhile route

Good to get another new one done

Wednesday, 29 August 2018

Still Moor....

Tuesday 28th August
Joined in with TM and MT on their planned visit to another NYM classic and a long standing favourite venue .....

The Wainstones

20th anniversary since AT first outside lead - "Wall and Ledge" written up in the Stewart Wilson guide for July 1998, having first seconded Jackdaw Gully in the rain in boots.

Not so still today, wind was well up on the edge

TM tackles the very fine Ridge Route (S 4a)

Gets HS 4b in the SW guide

Seems more like it.  Start very beefy.  Bold and delicate in the middle.

AT gives it beef

Crank for all it's worth

Christopher always seems a little precarious.

A secret hold helps but that would be telling....

The Bulge gets a go from the same stance, would be rude not to.

Apparently there used to be a secret hold but TM broke it off.

TM shapes a way round the bulge

The finishing slab seems to offer an easy finish.  But it is delicate and brooks no lapse in concentration.

The uber classic just had to get done despite the flappy wind.

MT looks on the bright side in advance of the fantastic finishing moves.

AT makes some minxy sphinxy shapes

Visiting veterans making a very tidy effort on the Little Bo Beep.

An intimidating lead

Lingering on before heading over the more sheltered WNW side.

MT follows up Morning Wall

Careful with that wig

Tony's Dilemma

To lead?
Or not to lead?

Either way 5a moves and maybe a bit more these days?

Secrets all safe as software....

Better holds up there!

All Top Secret

AT studies the spot where feet need to be

All AT pics by TM

There's a secret hold up there somewhere

Saturday, 25 August 2018

Moor moor moor!

August 24th

Fickle weather all week, not worth risking a longer drive given the prospect of frequent heavy showers so threw the dice on another session at

Scot Crags Scugdale

As expected conditions very mixed
Precipitation for the most part only fleeting

Woodpecker Wall dried out very quickly after a persistent spell of rain and hail

Like most routes here there's lots of action per metre

NB gets a good work out

Unfortunately we couldn't work this out

A shiny new dual axle number 4 BD cam stuck in Blaeberry Crack

Will need wrecking

 Time to quit the crag!  Four hours well spent!

Wednesday, 15 August 2018

NY Moorish

14 August

Invited to a party over in the NYM, who could resist the lure of a day out at

Scot Crags, Scugdale

Today's glitch - AT leaves rock boots in the garden room - but one size fits all so cue new climbing call "Boots below".

TM brings up MT in traditional style

Fiddling for a placement half way up Tooth and Nail

A long dry spell then some heavy rain has provided peerless rock

Clean as a whistle

Photos by TM

Time for tales of derring do

The finishing moves on Pisa Buttress seem to have got harder lately

BP ready to go

There's new routes for BP even at this much visited venue

Remus VS 4c

Plenty of weather, but no rain

More delightful climbing

BP is alright Jack

Rock boots resting where I left them.
Have a day off