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Saturday, 27 October 2018

The Kyloe Variations

Thursday October 25th

One more good day left before winter temps arrive.  Forecast good for SE Scotland so headed up that way to see how good it was at;


Sunny spells and reasonably temperature - picking up from where AT and CB left off in August on Fir Tree Buttress to explore some more new lines.

NB heads up Burns Offering (Direct)  at something like HVD

Grades hereabouts are at best enigmatic

The finishing wall is awkward to gain via the flake but offers rewarding holds

AT varies the ramp start on Ramp and Wall

The Wall also got varied with a section from Conifer Direct

No prizes for guessing what went wrong.

Earlier on CB had eyed up the red line

Bulging, undercut unprotected start

Gets VD in the guide

As in Very Desperate

CB renders it feasible

Hand grabbing arm stretching feet flailing body rocking good

Pleasant finishing wall at about Mild Severe

NB takes a Mo to think about the first bit of gear

CB knows something we don't.

NB makes some mo' shapes

A few Mo-ments later

A fine line

The bulge and hanging slab is "The Glade"

It's been on AT's list for a long while

Time it came off.

Runner in the RH crack helps stop the nerves jangling before the make or break rock over up onto the slab

Feels a bit under-gladed

Feels precarious until....

....a couple of moves leads to a landing on the one big(?) foothold


Big holds provide a satisfying exit

CB on a cruise

Another new route on the crag

Diminuendo 4b provides an off width intro

Until recently all  hidden behind a huge tree

"head torch optional"

CB opts for a variation finale up the steep wall of Fawlty Towers at 4c

Run out

AT on the starting moves

Off width layback the best bet - can't hang about

Two takes on the big finish on Fawlty Towers

Yet more hybrid combo climbing

AT starts up Twin Cracks before moving out left onto Chris's Route

 Proper start is up the undercut nose centre pic

Open climbing up the face provides a great contrast

NB popped up Miny, then CB finishes off with the classic line of Tacitation

The climbing is never desperate

Except for the first three metres, all of which are.

Another great late season day out

Could be the last outside in 2018

A brilliant year

Notes on climbs
1  Grade not given in guide
2  Grade guessed
3  Grade as per guide, start is maybe HS 4b
4  About right
5  MVS 4c is a wierd grade, implies well protected crux.  VS 4c
6  Grade S4b start about right, VS 4c finish very run out
7  About right
8  The RH start reduces the HS to S and easy 4b
9  Very hard start getting harder.  About right overall

Friday, 26 October 2018

Moor the Merrier

Wednesday October 24th

A chance to join in with the Cleveland Locals at the always worthwhile NYM premier venue;

Scot Crags Scugdale

Autumn Colours firmly established, as are the Cleveland Team at the top of the crag (centre pic)

Started off again down the LH end and work right, TM and MT joining in rather than Barking up the other way

CB Rocks up Nook and Cranny Direct

AT latches the LH side pull.

Another pinging day!

Pics by MT

Moors provide a great setting

The upper wall of the Bulkhead leans out steeply

TM ready to make with some fancy footwork

Adjustements © AT
Phoetic License applied for

Pics by MT

Terrific climbing

A sequence of three pics

© TM

with thanks

No adjustments necessary!

Another belting day in the NYM

Friday, 19 October 2018

The Triermainers

Thursday October 18th
A glorious golden autumn day in prospect thank God we're climbing.  A foggy ride over the Pennines and across the Eden valley.  But once past Penrith the sky was Azure and All was Well.  There's no way we could let 2018 pass by without a visit to;

Castle Rock of Triermain

The air was still pretty cold on the walk in and frost was hanging on in the shade.  But what a scene!

CB demonstrates a variation on Slab Climb, moving right up the crux groove.

Conditions can only be described as fabulous

BP follows

All set to rock over and bridge out.

Good to do an old favourite in new style

Brilliant climbing

On impeccable rock

In superb conditions

BP keeps the momentum going with a variation direct finish on the route next door

As opposed to a more usual scuttle off left

Thin moves lead to better holds

AT gets a go on the front

Wall Climb
All done by the book!

We had some lunch in good company

Also on Wall Climb

Following the sun round onto the front face

CB gets  out of the steep groove that starts Kleine Rinne


Short clip here

A few more moves up to the belay

BP sorts out the crux

Meanwhile a fellow traveller finishes off Via Media

BP refuses to be intimidated by the steep moves at the start of Direct Route

Once the small hex is in we can all breathe again

A local climber woos that big jug on Kleine Rinne

The main crack is very wet

Fortunately there are fine moves out left for BP to make some great shapes on

Alone in that sea of rock

It just keeps going and the finish is steep and run out

Great effort Mr P

CB follows in typically efficient style

Time for another

AT revels in the juggy arete at the start of Via Media

Last led four years ago!

The crux move into the crack is still worth 4b

The variation finish to the right proves sporty also

More pics
Via Media
Direct Route
Kleine Rinne 
Wall Climb
Slab Climb

Perfect weather
Perfect Rock
Great setting
Excellent  company 
Fantastic day!