Adventure Playground

 Friday 27th May

Waited out another week of wind and showers to Friday when it's merely windy.  NB and AT homed in on the conveniently halfway venue of;

Brimham Rocks

Not busy with half term families, however an ambulance had arrived to collect an injured climber it was only 10am!  So the anticipation of having an adventure playground to enjoy was somewhat subdued

Missed out the usual starting sector at Cubic block (where getting off the ground is the main problem) in favour of more amenable routes as set out in this list retrieved from NB's personal climbing archive.  

The trees in and around the buttresses helped to dissipate the strong westerlies and the conditions were quite pleasant.  

Headed out to the Cyclops Sector, not done any routes there as yet.

© vincentchopper 

(UKC)

A couple of quick leads then AT suggests we have a look at this on a top rope.  Took a while to rig up the belay to eliminate risk of being pulled of sideways 

Unfortunately it was the left hand arete that was the 4b.  This is Gordon's Proffer at HVS 5a.  Go back to guidebook school AT.

No wonder neither of us could get up it.

Cracked Corner on Cracked Buttress was next on the list, unfortunately it had just been bagged by two guys with an instructor.  

So we pressed on to Grit Corner.

The lay back start is very dirty.

Overcome with some slightly combined tactics.

The top out (upper left) is much steeper than appears from below.  NB swarmed it!  Good effort!

Wandered along to Fag Slab and opted for the open climbing of Fag End.

Nice route on chipped holds,  a bit bold but top out is safe enough.

Headed back to Cracked Corner, good gear with a definite crux.

Called it a draw!

Moors Multicrag

 Sunday May 15th

CB returns from the Peak.  BP up for a return to the rock.  TM and MT opt in.   All the ingredients in place for a visit to the venues lurking up on Hasty Bank below the Cleveland Way, kicking off with a session at;

The Wainstones

TM, MT already on station setting up ropework to give EJ a chance to push the boat out on behalf of the youth contingent on Ali Baba E2 5c.

Meanwhile BP gets the pensioners party under way with a rather more amenable route.  Just to loosen things up before the proper hard stuff to come somewhere around Hard Severe.

After a little rehearsal EJ gets on the sharp end and makes short work of  this bold and formidable route.

Fulfilling all the promise on show back in July 2019 at Ravenscar.

TM thinks this may be a first female lead.

Pensioners look on. 

Air is heavy with respect and retrospection

CB overcomes a bad bout of white fingers to retrieve the gear 

Seeing CB have to struggle made EJ's effort all the more inspirational

CB wanders up Ling Buttress

(S 4a)

BP at the same point

BP ready for the awkward top out on Groove and Crack 

(S 4a)

By this time the wind funnelling straight up Bilsdale was really starting to pick up.

A spot of lunch then a wander across to the Dark Side

Raven's Scar

AT doing his best to pretend that Waterslide (HS 4b) is not in fact as dirty as only it can be at this time of year.

Which it is.

Gaining this little ledge is awkward at the best of times.

Kneeds must

Guano has dried up.

Mostly

A balancy move left leads to a shuffle off and stake belay

Adventurous

AT and CB on belay

BP on for a stiff drink.

Forest Face sees a lot more traffic and was pristine by comparison

CB leads

BP in the same spot

BP showing some rope tricks on the summit of Airlift

Airlift

Direct start

The opening moves are surprisingly pokey.

BP remains unfazed and cuts loose round the corner

Continues up the east face in fine style

CB shows one of his classic shapes

A bit on the side.

Can't beat it

Kyloe Direct

 Thursday May 5th

Various options in play, CB's final message said `simply "North!"

So inevitably Northumberland, after a heavy shower en route found ourselves in the lee of the Cheviot under the damp looking buttresses of

Kyloe

Sheep on sentry duty

Baa'ing access to the crag.....

Looked quite damp but was actually in good shape

Saint's Progress at S4b is a good opener to get the feel of  County sandstone after a couple of limestone days.

Took shelter from a short shower then moved along to the glade.

CB making good progress after taking some time to sort out the moves on the awkward crux of Flake Crack (S 4b)

Opting for a sporting finish direct up the headwall 

Normally the exit is leftwards through the large break.  

Following this direct finish seemed to be de rigeur for the day.

Storm Arwen has wreaked havoc above the routes

The pines lie low at Kyloe

At least four large trees down, this one across the entrance to the usual descent gully in this sector.

Like Armageddon up there.

More details in this UKC report here

AT continues the trend with a direct finish of Christmas Tree Arete at VS 4c.

Will need to be going well to get up Gagarin's Groove, the open corner on the right.

CB follows after a little moment up the damp starting crack which was even more nervy than usual 

Bone dry above that though.

Gold Bonger sits well in that pocket (bottom right)

CB won't be fooled by the awkward moves stretching above on Deception Crack  

(HS 4b)

AT solved the crux facing right on side pulls and Egyptians

A spot of lunch then a tricky choice from the Eeny Meeny Miny Mo quartet.

It's a very long time since Meeny drew the straw so it seemed about time to get on up there.

Lovely climbing leads to another direct finish up a dirty slab and sloping mantelshelf exit.

Better than the dirty groove which is basically a walk out.

Deception Wall (HS 4c) requires a bold approach before fantastic flakes and jugs lead to a romping finish.

Direct is the only alternative hereabouts.

BETA ALERT

AT stiffened up some sinews and mustered up some moxy to shimmy up the steep start of Twin Cracks.

All a bit desperate until CB prompted a bomb proof placement for the blue offset AT was waving hopefully at the crack. After that things went swimmingly.

(c) RockFax App

Still time for another Direct Finish.

CB tops out on Mo (S4a)

A well set bit of camming is always very calming.

Just got past 100m   Seemed like a fair bit more!

Note; 

Route 5 is Meeny not Eeny