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Thursday 29 October 2015

A Fine Finale?

Tuesday October 27th

Another Late Season Special - dreadful weather east of Pennines but another world out west - got to be Lakes again!  Nights drawing in, need fast access and exit and single pitches to suit all three members, where else but the fabulous rock of that prime venue.....
Castle Rock of Triermain

Looking forward to the regular circuit on a very mild Autumn day, not at all gnarly, how disappointing.....

Gearing up



Just scraped in at quota..

Today's setting
BP gets ready to tackle the head wall on Lilith















Get on up there...!


PM making the steep and delicate last few moves



AT on Slab Climb


Lost count of number of repeats

Always a treat



PM looking to seek out those side pulls

They are all still there!




Moving right along to Wall Climb

Wonderfully varied

Steep groove
Steady slab
Bulgy finish




BP gets his hips well forward

Fine style




The superb Gangway Climb

PM in an amazing position

Sensational verticality from this angle




Time for another one....

AT on the steep intro to Direct Route

Testing



Easier here

Cue a phew!



Then into the steep and juggy crack system


The crag basks in the glow the late afternoon sun

BP reaching for the good hold

AT wresting with a pair of irritable Italians
(belay plate succumbed to gravity)
Bit of a struggle to keep up, managed to make it work
Winding up
Fingers crossed for another balmy Autumn day?
L-R
Gangway Climb
Wall Climb
Lilith
Slab Climb
Direct Route

More pics if you have permission here
"So much of it's terrible, but all of it's great"







Wednesday 28 October 2015

Sunday Fall Back Plan

Sunday 25/10

Make the most of the extra hour - away out west for a regular Sunday saunter - Threlkeld to Keswick and X5 back


Tried to get sunny but didn't quite make it

Saturday 24 October 2015

Wild Shepherds

Thursday 22nd October Pretty breezy everywhere especially East of Pennines - headed out west hoping that the forecast of improving weather would hold good.  Seeing as it's getting well past the equinox and the nights are quickly drawing in and no desire to push any boats out figured that steady climbing on familiar ground would be adventurous enough given the possibility of 30+mph gusts and the occasional squall.
Shepherd's Crag - Brown Slabs



A summer view of today's venue
Only three parties on the crag
Plenty to keep us all busy for a few hours



NB cruises up to the old oak belay in the middle of Brown Slabs





PM wanders at will





AT close to the limit of his satiability




The angle eases after the first 100 feet
Fabulous spot



AT starting out on Brown Slabs Face

Avoiding the grey green greasy section 

Fine open climbing says the new guide.  Up from VD to HVD plus a third star- that will do nicely!




Meanwhile the chap from Newcastle has a bit of Limpopo on Brown Slabs Crack



Even on a dodgy day Borrowdale takes some beating







NB keeps the slabfest going

Pulling the red rope through on the way the belay on Brown Slabs Arete



Belay soon coming

L-R
BS Arete
BS Face
BS
More pictures might be 
here
(if you have access permission)

Monday 19 October 2015

Face of the Gods

Saturday 17th October

BP up for a day out - had planned a couple of un-done VS at Sheperds but the crag car park was rammed, so carried on to the Bowderstone car park to make the most of the NT parking rights and hiked all the way to
Woden's Face.

Of the Anglo Saxon God Woden.... "He is death. He is war. He is the raven that feasts on the hanging victims. He is danger incarnate. He is mind-madness, an ecstatic madness that he fully embraces, comparable with the worst of our own creative potential..."   

Just like us then


Forget the training, just buy a new guide and see your grades improve

Minor crisis - quickdraws still in garage!! 
60cm slings all pressed into service, fortunately BP had just forked out on a few - managed to make up about 8 altogether - phew!




Outing with the Family

BP's new rope makes a bright enough debut





Custard Cake is a yummy route, all over too soon really


About to commit to the slippery move on Blue Riband

Good to have a big friend in



BP puzzling out the awkward moves low down on Wimpey Way

All sorted in good order



Higher up

Plenty of scope for finding a fine position



Crag getting a bit arboriated

Have to get onto the council......
Bella Belay Vista



Woden's Face

Very run out in this section even with a high runner out left

Used to be VD, now MVS

Reckon MVS 4a about right



BP on WF Super Direct

Harder but somewhat safer, over the bulge at 4b?



Round the right is the pumpy start to Woden's Cheek

Once the first gear is in things calm down a bit



Fine open climbing with some cheeky bits of gear
BP soaks up the late afternoon light

More Gods of Rock

Thursday 15 October 2015

Taking the Fourth

Sunday 11th - Wednesday 14th

Hove City Walking - quest for a pad continues




The Best Western Princes Marine Hotel does the business for 3 sleeps



Typical beach action






Viewed twice

Offer accepted!



Fingers crossed for final result!



STOP PRESS

Took ownership and moved furniture in 16/12