Kyloe Direct

 Thursday May 5th

Various options in play, CB's final message said `simply "North!"

So inevitably Northumberland, after a heavy shower en route found ourselves in the lee of the Cheviot under the damp looking buttresses of

Kyloe

Sheep on sentry duty

Baa'ing access to the crag.....

Looked quite damp but was actually in good shape

Saint's Progress at S4b is a good opener to get the feel of  County sandstone after a couple of limestone days.

Took shelter from a short shower then moved along to the glade.

CB making good progress after taking some time to sort out the moves on the awkward crux of Flake Crack (S 4b)

Opting for a sporting finish direct up the headwall 

Normally the exit is leftwards through the large break.  

Following this direct finish seemed to be de rigeur for the day.

Storm Arwen has wreaked havoc above the routes

The pines lie low at Kyloe

At least four large trees down, this one across the entrance to the usual descent gully in this sector.

Like Armageddon up there.

More details in this UKC report here

AT continues the trend with a direct finish of Christmas Tree Arete at VS 4c.

Will need to be going well to get up Gagarin's Groove, the open corner on the right.

CB follows after a little moment up the damp starting crack which was even more nervy than usual 

Bone dry above that though.

Gold Bonger sits well in that pocket (bottom right)

CB won't be fooled by the awkward moves stretching above on Deception Crack  

(HS 4b)

AT solved the crux facing right on side pulls and Egyptians

A spot of lunch then a tricky choice from the Eeny Meeny Miny Mo quartet.

It's a very long time since Meeny drew the straw so it seemed about time to get on up there.

Lovely climbing leads to another direct finish up a dirty slab and sloping mantelshelf exit.

Better than the dirty groove which is basically a walk out.

Deception Wall (HS 4c) requires a bold approach before fantastic flakes and jugs lead to a romping finish.

Direct is the only alternative hereabouts.

BETA ALERT

AT stiffened up some sinews and mustered up some moxy to shimmy up the steep start of Twin Cracks.

All a bit desperate until CB prompted a bomb proof placement for the blue offset AT was waving hopefully at the crack. After that things went swimmingly.

(c) RockFax App

Still time for another Direct Finish.

CB tops out on Mo (S4a)

A well set bit of camming is always very calming.

Just got past 100m   Seemed like a fair bit more!

Note; 

Route 5 is Meeny not Eeny