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Thursday, 21 April 2016

Make Mine a Double

Wednesday April 20th
Two days out in a row!  Making the most of possibilities with high pressure in charge this week.  Another day with Mr Blue Sky - the choice of crag seems a bit predictable however the plan involved NB exploring some new terrain at
Shepherds Crag
So giving today's outing the additional dimensions of variety and uncertainty to offset the familiarity of this regular venue.
All in two pitches
What - no Brown Slabs!



Little Chamonix
AT settling in to the rhythm of the route and contrasting climbing









NB leading out into the dazzling sunlight at the top of P3 before continuing to the top

Another belay bypassed.....!
 
NB moves up to the belay on P1 of Derision Groove (MVS 4b) and opts to hand on to AT for P2 this time.

Some fine positions on this pitch


Derision Groove P2

A powerful move past the spike lead to a contrasting series of delicate side pulls, underclings and small footholds giving access to the final ramp

This pic from previous ascent on another glorious day in July 2011.
Fortunately a couple on the girdle traverse showed due consideration whilst climbing through



A.N Other gains the final ramp (using a higher line)
© Paul Ross, UKC 31 Mar 2016

(PR confirms that this line is easier!)


Ant Highway
© Smudge03, 25 Mar 2016

Climbing the rather strenuous first few metres, testing moves to here then two essential cams and another move up reveals a welcome jug before pulling through.

Phew!

 

It's that pic again! 



Yikes!

Tuesday, 19 April 2016

Scot Crags and Co

Tuesday April 19

BP up for some local action after a long trip to Melrose on Monday

Great weather on the NY Moors and in good company with Tony M, Mike T (Cleveland CMC) and Les D (Harrogate regular)

Scot Crags

A testing circuit making the most of the Harrogate training on a series of fine routes, some in less than perfect condition given some recent heavy rain up there, all adds to the sport.



BP on some very delicate moves on Pingers (VS 5a)
before finding a way to better holds in the break



AT tries to figure out the physics on the sapping finish of Gravity Wall (HS 4b)


Newton had a point


UKC says head left from here

BP gets deep and dirty on Tooth and Nail (HS 4c) would be VS but for the option to bridge on the left wall.

But that's for wimps, going instead direct in fine style up this steep and sustained route that never lets up

The finishing crack demands a solid jam, it's longer than it looks from below

Monday, 18 April 2016

It's Daff time of year



Daffs in full April glory




Getting ready for planting veg

Fish blood and bone
Yummy

Weekend Walkers

Saturday & Sunday April 16-17



To Headlam via Langton


Locals en route


Sunday - Langstrath from Rosthwaite to Black Moss Pot


Identity parade
Must be the one that looks a bit sheepish



Lunch



Sergeant Crag Slabs

Climber just visible

Intrepid!




10.8km

12.40 - 16.00
(20 mins lunch)

One for the books


Tuesday, 12 April 2016

South Coast Sessions

Tuesday April 5th - Monday 11th

Train trip to Hove, usual mix of mooching,meeting, greeting and eating!

Beatles Abbey Road Sessions concert at the Brighton Centre




Fab show



Great visuals and sound
A couple of short clips below
Check out the walrus....
(2nd clip at 2m40)


Great Sounds


Cracking Sunday lunch at Polpo before heading back north Monday
See you in May!

Friday, 1 April 2016

All Quiet on the Western Front

Thursday March 31st

Plans all a bit fluid this week, up to the last minute seemed set for a Harrogate session on Friday, but circumstances flipped and a window opened for another outdoor fix.  NB unaquainted with real rock after a 6 month lay off - so familiarity once again at the top of the specifications, forecast indicated west most favourable, so where else but?

Castle Rock of Triermagain....

After the flood the main road to Grasmere is closed so it was very quiet on the crag - very little traffic noise.  Also present - prodigals Frank W and Roger B raring to go on their second time outside after a winter at Harrogate Wall.  Must be the third time we've shared a day with them there.

After a couple of feeble flurries the weather got better and better.  The usual circuit met all requirements, with a fine finale on Via Media.



AT ready to quit the gangway and whistle up the delightful finishing wall



Steady climbing to a welcome spike and sling dutifully clipped


NB gets a friend into the fine crack high on an amenable Lilith

In the book at HS so tick it off!!



FW deals with the short steep groove on Kleine Rinne



Meanwhil NB enjoys the juggy rib at the start of Via Media

There was talk of a belay.....

But the smart money was on a single pitch!



Belays not obvious....
so
NB starts up the well known crux, about 4a?  Jugs follow.












Another great day in the glorious Lakes



Some topos for reference

 South Crag RH
L-R
Gangway Climb, Wall Climb, Lilith, Slab Climb

Below
South Crag LH wall
Via Media