Friday 28 July
Took a chance on a long drive for a shortened climbing window. Drove through some cloudbursts but rode our luck and crowbarred in 6 routes in dry conditions at Kyloe
NB ready for the perennially popular Christmas Tree Arete
Good big gear presents itself all the way
NB ready to unwrap the final moves
AT on the jug-tastic upper reaches of Deception Wall.
Deception Crack lived up to it's name
Wing Co Thompson makes a clean ascent after enjoying(?) unexpected air-time.
.
Nice catch partner.....
AT ready to move across to finish up the steep right wall
Finished off with a quick whistle up Flake Crack - all done in 20 minutes
Tuesday 25th July
Peak conditions once again favourite so southbound to sample the new guidebook delights at the often passed by...... Burbage North
Walked along the edge for over a kilometre to reach the far end slabs which yielded a goodly selection of amenable routes to warm up on at up to Vdiff - gets the juices going and puts some metres on the clock. Enjoyed the company of numerous climbers from the Castle Club Sheffield - on a mission to celebrate their 50th anniversary by doing 500 routes in a week. Well on the way already!
The classic jamfest of Amazon Crack
HS 4b ***
AT slays a dragon from 2004
From the Vaults
A photo of the 2004 effort
Got this far before panic set in and bailed out
A Castle Club climber
The difficulties relent somewhat after half way
BP on Rose Flake
A bit powerful for 4b
Some greasy jams
Very steep at the finish
But positive holds at last
AT tackles Green Crack
Steep start
Steep finish
Good gear.
Farcical Arete
HS 4b *
Gear finally arrives and BP obliges
Fortunately the main difficulties are low down
Fine position for finishing above bomber pro
Much more to play with on Right Twin Crack
at HVD 4a*
AT carries on stitching it up
More of the same on the sibling route
A nice closing climb at VD * Bilberry Wall
BP opts for a more sporty finish up the end of the neighbouring line up the face to the left;
(this being Bilberry Cake, at a rather improbable
4c, easier than any of the 4b routes)
Last day of the hot spell, domestic stuff getting in the way of a full day out so crow-barred in a half day at
Eastby Crag
Conditions considerably more benign than the abortive visit earlier in the year. All routes well starred - quality making up for quantity given the limited time.
BP gets started on the tricky transition round the roof on the classic Pillar Rib
An abundance of inviting cracks.
But getting a good placement proving surprisingly tricky.
Still plenty to do from here
The bold slab at VS P3 no gear best left alone in favour of the well protected left hand crack
The off width finish? No thanks.
Stepped across up the left hand ramp much more amenable
Some tempting (sh)apes in prospect
Interesting, varied climbing
The slabby middle section leads to a fine
jam-and-gear-fest
Still time left to pop up another 3 star classic - a contender for the best Yorkshire VDiff
Would be rude not to...
VS finish up the right ignored with a view getting to the pub in good time for the onward trip north
Wednesday 12th July
Lakes calling!
After a glut of grit venues it feels like a trip out west is overdue. BP leads a quest for terra incognita and the team signs up for a day out in the backwoods of Borrowdale. The venue is found in a sylvian setting around Kings How on the fells east of Grange. The walk in passes a gloomy looking Black Crag and pushes on up to the the sun soaked ribs and walls of; Christmas Crag
Messrs P and B head off the beaten track
The crag comes into view in about 45 mins
10 mins to go
CB gets straight on the case
Christmas Rib HVS 5b
The moves to here are proper hard
BP leans in and plays close attention
At the edge of gullibility
A bit bold up to here
Finally two good units keep things cooking
BP roasts a way up the hard moves
A tricky transition left on a good side pull coming up.
Good climbing
It can be done!
BP straight into the next course, a well protected 4c to get tucked into.
The crag looks out across a mouth watering vista
Yummy
The interest is sustained most of the way to the belay
AT brings the grades back down another level
Just enough gear to keep happy
Variation finish stepping out right at 2/3 height adds a bit of spice
CB back in front
Fizzing away on Alka Salsa at HVS 5a
BP gets his dose of rock dancing
Much steeper than it looks from this angle
Another good route a few metres left
Sherry Trifle HVS 5a
Can't be passed up
Video below (click bottom right for full screen)
So time to move on to check out the lower tier. In hindsight this was not a good idea. Played lip service with just one route, CB again in the lead on another HVS 5a. Two pieces of gear in 15m.
