Slipstones Late Season

Monday October 30th

Keeping last week's Wednesday-Friday momentum going with a short day at the long lost local gritstone crag, Colsterdale's finest...
Slipstones
This venue has been creeping up the list of short day options for a while, it's finally made it to the number one slot. It used to deserve at least an annual visit on the roster up until about 2005.  No place for the weak of spirit.

A rather feeble and intermittent sun fails to get the temperature anywhere near gas mark 1 despite a 12.30 start.

A few gropes up a short steep VDiff were promptly rebuffed through feelingless fingers and a crumpled confidence level.  The Diff next door succumbed to some desperate moves.  Suddenly remembered why it had been so long.......

How did he get up there?!?

BP warms himself up on a steep and intimidating HS 4b.

An inspiring effort. 


Shame none of the drive, willpower and technique was absorbed by the second.  Managed to retrieve the gear though.

Another adjacent route proved harrowing, but possible

A photomontage
(all pixels contemporaneous, give or take)

BP gets himself super imposed.



That's the way to do it.

The crag could be great in good weather


Jack the Lad follows the LH arete

A fine VS goes up behind the climber, one to come back for.

Finishing off a testing afternoon on the pleasant Tommy's Dilemma.

The Black Swan at Fearby is a great spot for recovery, the log burner was duly worshipped

CB shows the way in the early 90's

The low grades and meterage give no clue to the damage done to mind body and soul.....

Autumn Gold Rush

Friday 27th October

A one day high pressure wonder.  Fortunately able to crowbar another day out at short notice, taking advantage of the cerulean skies, dazzling rays, gentle breeze and imperious rock at;

Stanage Edge
Along with a car park full of other parties with the same idea.  Nonetheless there's plenty of great climbing enough to go round.

L-R
Oblique Crack
Albert's Wall
Leaning Buttress Crack
Garden Wall
Chockstone Direct
Beech Tree Wall
Flying Buttress

 Ready to Rack

AT having a sudden struggle on Leaning Buttress

Some sort of rhythm finally sets in just before the top

BP on Garden Wall

Refusing to be distracted by the stream of conciousness running self commentary brain dump from the climber on an adjacent route, could the moves be done?  Or not? Was it right to be worried?  Or not?  Is that cam ok?  Or not?  Etc. Etc.

And etc.


Said climber still on the route one hour later........

Varied Climbing

Strenous start

Tricky transition up and left

A fine open finishing wall

Good value

AT had a look at Via Media at VS4c

But the soaring line of this easier route seemed more compelling.

The pre-placed high side runners brought this VS4c down to size........

AT treats himself this top 50 über classic


Delightful

Just time for two in a row by BP

Going well at the eponymous chockstone

Difficulties overcome in tidy style




Quit the crag just as the Sheffield nine to fivers arrived on a flyer to catch a short session before the clocks go back

Again!

NYM Multi-Crag

Wednesday October 15th

Forecast looked good enough, opted to visit the less well travelled but nonetheless inviting venue of
Park Nab

A coffee and scone at the very welcoming Rusty Bike (wood burner!) at our Swainby meet up gave time for the clouds to clear and the sun to shine.  On arrival it was a bit blowy, by the end of the arduous seven minute walk in it was really gusting.  One route done and the top of the crag was really wild.

BP's expression gives a clue to the gale blowing up there.

Beat retreat for lunch in the car and drive back to Swainby, avoiding the mud up a different path to
Scot Crags 

BP battles the bulge on Romulus


Still blowy but nowhere near as wild as Park Nab

Wolf Wall
Fiddling a friend in

Solid gear takes care of a fluttery finish

AT finishing off Blaeberry Crack

A Jamfest

The imaginively named
Corner Left Hand

Solid wire and friend in the breaks

More delicate footwork rewarded by finishing jugs

Out with the Indoor Gang

Friday October 17th

Been nearly two months since anything outside.  The Harrogate Wall crew came to the rescue with an offer to join in on their Lakes expedition.  Despite my best attempts to foul it up (gave Rodger the wrong email address!) managed to hook up in Langdale for a visit to the always challenging
East Raven Crag

Frank shows the way up the left hand satrt of Ophidea VS 4c

Moving up in an airy position

Frank tackles the last of the difficulties

Graham keeps on the right side

Graham gets set for the crux of Mamba at about S 4b

Roger on By Jingo VS 4b

More cams please!

Frank starts Jingo
E1 5a


Peter follows By Jingo

Steeper than it looks




Rained off at 15.15, finished off up a very wet By Jingo

 L-R

Mamba

Ophidea

Jingo

By Jingo (climber)

Speckled Band

 

Speckled Band very wet upper third

By Jingo in the rain

Jingo pretty good but v bold in the middle

Hove Gigs

7th -15th October

It's a Drive On Saturday!

Five hours 30m to Brooker St.  Drop off stuff then on to 4th, trip to View back for pasta norma

Sunday sunny walk on front lunch at Copper Clam - squid! Evening with V&P  for Sunday Pie Special.

Monday - slow day bus to town evening with Jamie's Mozarella Risotto

Tuesday - Morning sally forth to the Lagoon for fish.
Evening at Old Albion Pub Quiz - Brooker St Kids (6 off) ran out winners in a close run race  - outnumbered all the opposition. Drank the prize.....

Wednesday - walk to town, Planet India early evening then Strypes at the Concorde - Loud hot fast and heavy.

Thursday  - walk to Palace Pier - Sobi to Marina - walk to Saltdean, more squid and GC salad - bus back, regroup then Sunset with V at the view - 20,000 Steps By The Sea

Marina




and
Cliff
Walk

In the White Cliff



View sunset

Friday
Loft windows at Brooker
Plumber round following yesterdays repeat leak!!

Bankers at 4th then Brighton Beach Boys at Brunswick with V&P and Jeff and Sue et al.
Fantastic night some clips here

Screen shot
Joyous show

Saturday
Regroup
Shopping
Strictly Chilli at Brooker St

Sunday
Fast trip to WWOW 

West Coast Variations

Thursday 5th October


Ready for a sally forth - webcams at Keswick look promising. Slow drive over - two sets of roadworks added 40 minutes.

Invented another Derwent circuit, incorporating a link to Lingholm.  Weather stayed bright - fabulous!

Derwentwater

Shepherds Crag catches all the light

6 miles