Bliscography

Wednesday 25th July

And the heat goes on.  Looking for a bit of breeze and a user friendly crag with a range of amenable routes. What could fit that bill better than a trip up to high Wrynose and an easy walk up to the rough rock of

Long Scar

Headed to the left hand side beyond Katy's Dilemma to explore some untravelled territory and see what's on offer.

A party already experiencing the true meaning of Katy's Dilemma

Quite a few teams on the crag today

NB puts in a Nightshift

Dot's Delight follows a very nice clean stack of slabs up the buttress, one of the more obvious lines

As is this one further right, another team on the epynomous
Long Scar Groove

AT - inspired by the fine positions, just has to get grooving.

Camera tested and working

Ready for the groovy moves

Worth the 4a tech grade

AT is no prima donna but just can't wait to
Get Into The Groove

Steep, but good holds and big gear

Super climbing

Finished direct for extra sport

NB goes looking for Lucy, turns out to be VDiff to locate


No sign up here.......


So an unamed line at about HVD between the previous route and Great White, which tackles the obvious white shield direct at 4c

AT followed up the latter for yet more sport

The crag enjoys a spectacular setting

L-R
Nightshift
Dot's Delight
Great White (dotted)
"Looking for Lucy" (?)
Long Scar Groove

Langdale's Finest

Swirl it Up

Thursday July 19th
Another window opens up with a good forecast and no committments, so with motivation still high after a day's rest it was time to revisit the long planned return to

Upper Swirl Crag
Walk in via the Helvellyn track, follow the wall, through the wall, then continue a couple of hundred metres to an open area with a boulder.  Follow a faint track up through bracken, up between two small outcrops then up the scree. Forty minutes in.  25 minutes out.

BP gets the First One in
(left)








 

After this AT gave Sunset a go.  Not many people have.

All rather worrying for severe.  Finished up Tight Fit - the 5a next door - felt safer.





BP sets up belays for the day.  Good boulder but well
back.

Did Tight Fit on a TR (no low pro).  Excellent climbing, fingerlocking good!  Lead possible.


BP tackles the beetling rock of Midge Wall.



Wide angle pic here

Back in June 2013, BP Rudolfed a way up the start of Ballet Mecanique with some very dynamic moves

Photo by NB

At repeats the choreography and a quick JETÉ leads to a solid landing.

Slings galore, should have taken more!

From here head right into the blocky corner

A splendid steep shape-fest finale

Great setting

Fabulous weather


Thirlmere well down

BP gallops up the Knacker's Yard

Some Yee Haa! moves gain a photo finish

As routes go it's a winner!

The Runs

A very pokey start gains the undercut groove
Some bold moves follow


AT tucks trousers into socks and stiffens resolve

The groove is undercut at the start.

Entry is encouraged by some strenuous moves on poor holds above a bad landing.

A sapling invites a sling but its as dead as a dry twig.

Otherwise it's very nice.

L-R
Sunset
Tight Fit
The First One
Midge Wall
Ballet Mecanique
The Runs
The Knackers Yard

A great day's traditional Lakeland sport
More pictures here

 

ALT-Yarncliffe Esoterica

The drought comes to a sudden end with a some rain across most of the north.  But the storage heater effecs just burns it all off.  What's more some routes more usually relegated to esoterica by slime muck and moss have dried out, cleaned up by locals and so become temporarily COMPELLING.  Some examples of these to be found on the north facing facets at
Yarncliffe

A couple of looseners on the main face

Ants Wall (BP)

AT led Ant's Crack on the left


Brush comes in handy

A short walk leads to the Zapple sector.

North Facing routes benefiting from a month of hot weather


BP takes stock after smoking a way up the crux of Fall Pipe

(VS 4c **)

Zapple LH follows the zig zag crack and could go at HVS 5a next time?

Protection is great

But the crux demands some bottle with hard moves above the last gear

Get up there!!

Back to the main crag

AT sets up for the bold few moves up the headwall of Cardinal's Arete

A fine line

A bit run out

Meanwhile other parties tackle Ant's Arete and Latecomer

STP follows the obvious crack on the right.  Came well recommended by one of the other parties.  Very rarely in such clean condition.

BP just had to get it done!

Top end VS 4c.

A full set of jams required.

No action shots, close to the limit especially gaining the top crack.

Things going well enough to attempt the technical Cardinal's Slab at VS 5a


Unfortunately there was insufficient technique in the tank, had to abort and move up the VDiff next door

Routes to come back to pronto!

Pedestal Arete HS 4b moves up the steps from the right and goes up the arete on the left before finishing on the right.

Capital Cracks VS 4c goes up the obvious central crack via a  hard start from the left

Note; Cardinal Arete 4b start

It's Coming Hove

July 7th -14th

Trains, no boats or planes,
took us away,
to see a star rise over the Dome,
his name's BB,
he plays and conducts and sings,
quite brilliantly
(except the singing bit)

Fabulous show!!
Review here

Managed to watch all the World Cup semi final at Hove Place
It didn't come home but they did their best

The Hove Plinth

Evening peace

Everybody else stuck in front of the semi

Risky business!


Didn't want to watch

So took a pic!

On the way for early evening at La Fourchette

Almost Andalucia?

This week's itinerary

Saturday arrive

Sunday walk to Brighton then at Brooker for yummy afternoon evening eats

Monday shopping, evening Polpo and Dome for BB

Tuesday Lagoon and Semi Final at Hove Place Pub

Wednesday ride out to White Cliff cafe

Thursday Fridge install fiasco

Friday into Brighton, drinks at Mashed Tun, eveneing at La Fourchette

Saturday, breakfast at Brooker then lift to station and away.