Kyloe Stylo

Thursday 30 August

CB back from Catalunya and raring to go.  A quick fire WhatsApp exchange and we were all set, Northumberland said the man so I made a point of studying routes done and to do at Bowden.  That was a total waste of time as the man announced that todays venue would be

Kyloe

A few parties were grouping up on arrival so we made it snappy up to the first outcrops and set up camp in the Saints Wall area.

Parity (L)

Trinity (R)





Another climber on Trinity
Same helmet and shirt as AT so it will do!

 © andymoin UKC

CB at the same move

CB gets gear on the top wall on St Ivel


Four good routes at this sector then on to the next buttress for the much anticipated lead on Elevator


Unfortunately AT's lift only went to the first floor.  Having placed the crucial gear returned to belay level and swapped leads.   CB presses the right buttons to  move on up.  AT follows in good order.  Next time......

CB in the mood

Coldstream Corner requires power, determination and technique.

Unfortunately AT lacking one or more of these ingredients so had to settle for a supper of Pedigree Chum.

Woof!

Still - brought the gear up for his master.

Conifer Direct used to be overwhelmed by the eponymous tree.

Now it sees the light and is a worthwhile route


Good to get another new one done

Still Moor....

Tuesday 28th August
Joined in with TM and MT on their planned visit to another NYM classic and a long standing favourite venue .....

The Wainstones

20th anniversary since AT first outside lead - "Wall and Ledge" written up in the Stewart Wilson guide for July 1998, having first seconded Jackdaw Gully in the rain in boots.

Not so still today, wind was well up on the edge

TM tackles the very fine Ridge Route (S 4a)

Gets HS 4b in the SW guide

Seems more like it.  Start very beefy.  Bold and delicate in the middle.

AT gives it beef

Crank for all it's worth

Christopher always seems a little precarious.

A secret hold helps but that would be telling....

The Bulge gets a go from the same stance, would be rude not to.

Apparently there used to be a secret hold but TM broke it off.

TM shapes a way round the bulge

The finishing slab seems to offer an easy finish.  But it is delicate and brooks no lapse in concentration.

The uber classic just had to get done despite the flappy wind.


MT looks on the bright side in advance of the fantastic finishing moves.








AT makes some minxy sphinxy shapes

Visiting veterans making a very tidy effort on the Little Bo Beep.

An intimidating lead

Lingering on before heading over the more sheltered WNW side.

MT follows up Morning Wall


Careful with that wig

Tony's Dilemma

To lead?
Or not to lead?

Either way 5a moves and maybe a bit more these days?

Secrets all safe as software....

Better holds up there!

All Top Secret

AT studies the spot where feet need to be

All AT pics by TM

There's a secret hold up there somewhere

Moor moor moor!

August 24th

Fickle weather all week, not worth risking a longer drive given the prospect of frequent heavy showers so threw the dice on another session at

Scot Crags Scugdale

As expected conditions very mixed
Precipitation for the most part only fleeting

Woodpecker Wall dried out very quickly after a persistent spell of rain and hail

Like most routes here there's lots of action per metre


NB gets a good work out

Unfortunately we couldn't work this out

A shiny new dual axle number 4 BD cam stuck in Blaeberry Crack

Will need wrecking

 Time to quit the crag!  Four hours well spent!

NY Moorish

14 August

Invited to a party over in the NYM, who could resist the lure of a day out at

Scot Crags, Scugdale

Today's glitch - AT leaves rock boots in the garden room - but one size fits all so cue new climbing call "Boots below".

TM brings up MT in traditional style

Fiddling for a placement half way up Tooth and Nail

A long dry spell then some heavy rain has provided peerless rock


Clean as a whistle

Photos by TM













Time for tales of derring do

 

The finishing moves on Pisa Buttress seem to have got harder lately


BP ready to go

There's new routes for BP even at this much visited venue

Remus VS 4c





Plenty of weather, but no rain

More delightful climbing


BP is alright Jack









Rock boots resting where I left them.
Have a day off

Peaky Blinder

August 9th
All options possible good weather everywhere.  The feeling of unfinished business was overwhelming so it was inevitable that today's crag just had to be

Yarncliffe

The right hand routes remain clean and dry in the continuing fine weather, the objectives explicit and the drive down was fueled by a great sense of mission.

BP's lead yet again!

Get's off to an early start on Latecomer

AT in matching shirt and rope continues in the same style on Ant's Wall


The guide description is a bit misleading.  Anyone expecting "good holds and runners" is going to be very disappointed for 20 feet or so.

Next up, today's mission #1

Capital Cracks VS 4c **
is hard to start (bottom left)


Then fine technical climbing up the compelling central crack

Mr P in great form


Sustained but never desperate

Except for the first three metres off the ground


Worth *** surely

Today's mission #2

Pedestal Arete comes in from the right then follows the other side of the soaring arete before finishing up the right

AT offers to belay

No takers so carries on regardless



Airy climbing

BP climbs Fall Pipe on the last visit

Today's mission #3

Zapple LH (HVS 5a)

Follows the crack system on the right

BP earns a two footed rest of sorts after the crux moves on poor holds.

Smears and toe jams, slopers for hands.  PHEW!

Another climber another day faces up to the same sequence


Keeps going all the way up


Great effort by Mr P
All hail the new HVS leader!

© Peakology UKC

Ant's Arete provides a contrasting finale.



AT thinking about a delicate move above a number 1 wire.

More small wires a bit further up, plus small friend to protect a bold finish

Another angle



Still some routes to do at this year's GO-TO crag in the Peak