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Monday, 26 August 2019

Hasty Bank Holiday

August 25th

August Bank Holiday blessed with superb weather for once.   But how to beat the traffic jam blues and escape the madding crag crowds?   Head for this year's GO-TO NYM venue at;

Raven's Scar

Arrived to find TM, MT and JP already on the Forest Face opening gambit.





Seemed rude not to follow suit

AT contemplates runner options on the upper wall.





Meanwhile the TM/MT combo romp up a sunny Airlift








JP red-points Fever Pitch

A three star Moors Classic at
E2 5b
Steep going!
© Tony Marr,







Away to the left is a great spot for gearing up if it's raining.

Visiting cattle have trimmed all the grass very nicely.

Not much left of the usual path though.








Another regular that had to be done En Passant




BP passing through the same spot




The line of Lazy Bones looks deceptively straightforward from below.

Although team Marr and co had been up and cleaned it recently, it was not recommended as a lead so out came the brushes and a top rope.



The transition across would have been quite scary on lead

All rather dirty, in super dry conditions the climbing would be very worthwhile at the top of HS4b.




Looking down the finishing corners


We'll be back!




AT feels like finding a way up Via Anna


About time it got a direct lead.



It seems that a bit of sun helps with the crux moves at the very top

 L-R
Evening Wall
En Passant
Lazy Bones
Ahab (red, not done this year)
Forest Face
Harlots Groove (red, not done this year)
Via Anna
Airlift

Plenty still to go at!




Friday, 23 August 2019

Derbyshire Showers

Thursday August 7th

Traveled hopefully arrived in similar fashion.  However the fickle weather Gods messed about and the 10% chance of rain turned into several short showers.  So conditions less than ideal at last year's
GO-TO venue in the Peak......

Yarncliffe



CB arrives in time to make a shapely second on Latecomer



All is still dry as BP formulates some fancy footwork on Ant's Wall





CB in cruise mode



Cardinal's Arete is in poor condition.

AT and CB contemplate



It's greasy

AT wonders if it goes




A shower intervenes and retreat to lunch seems sensible







Forty minutes and one leader fall later AT finds some better rock



Ready for the RH transition



Visiting climber AB guesting on second






BP keeps going through the rain




Slippery jams lead to a steady finish




Last route winds the day down in better conditions






Fall Pipe (LH crack) this year vs October 18

Going to need a drought and a good clean up







Both all the way from
1970

Wednesday, 21 August 2019

Anniversary Dreaming

Wednesday 14th - Tues 20th August

Drive down with V&P from WWOW

On a Musical Mission!

34 fabulous years






Friday 16th
Up to London


Saturn V engine

Rocketdyne J-2

11 feet high




Apollo 10

Command Module


Stafford
Young
Cernan



Evening Show




Jason D rocks the house!


At the Brunswick Festival




Azure




No swimming!


Phew...



Views from the number 1




Back to Winston on the 13.00 from KGX




Friday, 9 August 2019

Borrowdale Favourites

Thursday August 8th

Summer is pressing on, and with just two Lakes trips in the bag it's time to grab another one. It's been three years since this team were at;

Shepherd's Crag

So another visit to this major venue is about due.   Heavy rain had fallen all day Tuesday.  There had been more overnight.  Conditions in the morning were quite interesting.

At least the screes were bone dry



AT heads up into the light


Brown Slabs living up to its name.




It's a monster long single pitch





One of a dozen or so youngsters having an outdoors day.


Very green at this end of the crag.



BP on his first ascent of Brown Slabs Scoop

A streak of cleanish but gear free rock leads to the much improved upper reaches.


BP digs deep and holds it all together somehow.





The last section is also bold





Derision Groove provides a complete contrast


Gear everywhere
Abundant holds

Pristine rock


AT on P1.  Left BP to placate a very angry ants' nest.




Adjusting the anchors to create more room on belay.




A hard move through some spooky rock leads to a superb wall



BP accepts the challenge of the RH overlaps




AT reaches the hanging ramp that leads to the finish.



Previous ascents have opted for moves from below that lead to an exit at the bottom rh corner





Three fairly long routes on a windless humid day have taken their toll.





Ready to call it a draw.