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Thursday, 23 September 2021

Coller Heugh

 Wednesday 22 September

Back from a week away on the south coast so time to make the most of the ongoing Indian Summer.  Travelled way up to the far north of north east Northumberland on a return to the various buttresses of Coller Heugh, more commonly known as;

Kyloe


AT made short work of the mostly easy angled  Christmas Tree Arete.


NB's image has somehow time travelled from four years back to point out the smeary jamming slopey undercut sandbagging start of this very pleasant Diff.


Then CB jumped 5 grades up onto this side pulling shocker.  Wilfred Prickles now lacking the eponymous tree but still full of stress and strain and worth the HVS it gets on UKC.

CB just flew up there.

After a promising start AT flapped at it like a raven with a broken wing. There's no success like failure. And failure's no success at all.


AT found the start of Deception Wall (on the left) too pokey and left it to CB to sort out.  

CB tackles it's big brother in a fine position.



Looking back down this compelling line, displaying a range of possible climbing styles.  Good value.







After a couple of leads at Severe and a bit, AT hands back the lead to CB.

The padding up the slab went v well on second.  But hand seizures rendered the wall finish into a dog's dinner for AT.




Moved along onto Cloister Wall


Opted for two pitches as shown in this montage.


All pixels there on the day. But not necessarily in this order.


Hanging belay - felt adventurous





An actual photo.

AT  just managed to follow P2 without rests despite cramping hands.

Previously led in 2018 with NB.




Happy Days


Various classics from this selection


Wednesday, 22 September 2021

The Distant Sky

 September 11th

Took a trip in a Gemini spacecraft

310 miles south to the coast at Hove, where the skies are forever and the light is a flood.  







Swimming with the mermaids 6 days of 7.

Out with Pete and Vikki Sunday and Friday.  The usual daily promenading.  


The local boys are there at the edge of the water where the stones meet the sea.






Later that evening




Birdland







Beachworld











Mermaids







Way down low




Visit with Lilleys


Hare Krsna

Krsna Krsna

Hare Hare







Beach Dazzle






Searching for the morning dolphins.




Adventurous beach sport

Wind planing

A great week in an Indian Summer.  

Thursday, 9 September 2021

Cracked Out

 Tuesday 7 September

An Indian Summer befalls most of the UK, so far not much gritstone action this year, the Peak felt too far given the amount of traffic down the A1/M1 these days.  However just an hour's drive away stand the imperious monoliths and extended edges of;

Brimham Rocks



The sun was already up to the power of three on the upper reaches of Cubic Block.


Some welcome shade








AT followed in identical attire to this lead effort from July 2018, in identical weather.


AT's turn to lead on the magnificent monolith of Cannon Rock.

Maloja gets VS 4c **

Probably owing to the descent off the back.

Although having a long reach helps a lot.



Another move along to the Triple Cracks sector

The classic RH Crack goes at 
VS 4b ***

Except it's much harder than Maloja, and has a horrendous swim out at the top.  

© Rockfax  "It's a relief to find that the exit is reasonably straightforward. "

Bollocks!



BP arrives to follow the action on Cracked Corner which is comparatively very pleasant.

AT on the tricky starting moves 
© BP with thanks

Another climber, another day on the jamming testpiece of Right Wall.

CB executes perfect technique with unbroken skin.



14.30

AT now fully Binksinated

A cold lager at the Water Rat will make everything good again......




A finishing hold

Not much but it's the only exit.
You just have to love it.







Same as these rockers



















Wednesday, 1 September 2021

Trussed Up

 August 31st

The last day of August and a distinctly Autumnal feel is in the air.  CB's suggestion from last week put into action with a drive west to the varied climbing at;

Gouther Crag

Parking no longer possible at the water works, the large area further up the road was almost empty and added about 15 minutes to the walk in. About 40 minutes in total.  


No rain reported for over a week and the normal route up the buttress was bone dry

Delightful climbing up clean rock at a friendly angle, no stress so far!


Cool breeze out of the north east makes for a chilly belay.




The diagonal line of Scabby House starts from the descent path and proves a tempting option.


CB on the 5a bit.




The good hold is just out of reach.  




All done in good order, time to move on the the Fang Buttress



AT on Kennel Wall.  A 3 star classic.  One big pitch.




The Fang would have been a logical next lead for CB, but the wind was up and there were signs of rain heading our way.


Time to call it a draw.  


A shorter day but top quality climbing.






Attemire Pale Ale hits the spot