Wednesday 26th June
The minor heat wave hangs in another day. Froggatt was in the running but common sense prevailed given the temperatures in the high mid twenties and there's no shade up there. A couple of venues feature short walk ins and plenty of shade so was mightily relieved when the message from CB came in with a switch of plan to the über convenient and user friendly;
Yarncliffe
An 8am start got us there at 10.15 despite some delays on the M1. Still room to park by the gate so a mere 3 minutes walk and we were gearing up to get going. During the course of the day about four parties joined in - everybody happy to work around the routes, plenty of chat, and more than enough climbing to go round.
AT starts the with the obvious line of Ant's Crack (S4a). A foot got totally stuck. Had to reverse the move and repeat with improved technique. The gold friend made a few moves up along the way.
CB upped the ante to HS 4a up Ant's wall just to the right. AT ant-icipated the challenge of Latecomer (HS4b) the zig zag crack to the left.
All ideal for aspir-ant crack climbers.
CB upped the ante again with a great lead up the technical Cardinal Slab at VS5a.
AT managed to lead this in October 2018 as shown in the image.
Would have struggled to make the lead in todays conditions (mind, body and heat). Had a few moments on the second but just made it. A fall would have been a major anty-climax.
Ever the devi-ant, here's AT returning to a bit of esoterica, the meandering line of pedestal arete. Works its way up a series of steps before a transition left onto the face before moving right again round the arete to finish up the wall.
Adventurous
By now all the routes in the left hand bay in the full sun. CB heads to the north buttress to check out Fall Pipe. It looks in good condition from here, no ferns or sundry greenery. Or ants.
But close acquaintance reveals a coating of greasy gunge especially in the bottom third.
However CB declared it a goer.
CB shows the way with a series of jams and more jams to gain some amenable footholds.
Hexes help. Ant-ique gear. All bomber.
A friend goes in here.
CB just passed the crux before a straightforward finish and a belay on some pre-placed rope around a tree.
CB rolls back down from the anchor so as as to provide advice, guidance and encouragement from the ground.
AT eventually finds the techniques that work after some abortive lay back action involving lots of movement that only made progress downwards.
The wall is split on the left by a long crack which gives good safe jamming and bridging when it is dry. Sadly it is often a bit green and greasy. © Rockfax
Climbers travelling some way from the south making the most of their trip with a fine lead on Cardinal Arete (direct start).
Calling it a draw in favour of a cooling and gentlemanly libation at the Strines.
