17 July 2024
Three weeks has passed with no crag action. Back then the original idea was for a trip to a famous Eastern Edge but the arrival of a sudden heatwave shifted the plan to the shady quarry of Yarncliffe. Once again the mercury had risen but there was no putting it off this time. After well over 20 years since the last visit (see addendum) the time had inevitably come to do a re-peak at;
Froggatt Edge
Depart 08.18 arrive 10.35 parking. The reservoir route as usual. 25 min. walk in.
CB strides in full of purpose and intent. Sporting a recently discovered Matelot look.
Either that it's a case of montrez mois vos ognions Monsieur.
CC and SD arrive for a meet up and chat, details here
AT gets the circus under way with a pleasant lead on Trapeze, CB and CC follow alphabetically.
CB up next with a sustained attempt to pass the crux in Trapeze Direct to the left. Thwarted by greasy rock in the lay away above the trapped block.
So escaped out right so AT could do it all again on second.
Photo © Chris Craggs
The sun had come round to shed some light on the dark corner of Green Gut.
AT has a bit of a battle but gets up, a couple of rests help. Deals with the wet finish which is said to be awkward enough in the dry.
CB thoughtfully saved his story of the bad accident witnessed some time ago on this route. Hard to fathom gear is all there.
Original photo © Christopher Owen UKC
Making up for the earlier struggle on Trapeze Direct CB ups the ante with a solid lead of Broken Crack (HVS 5a)
A big layback to start and a steep finish on decent jams. No rests anywhere.
CB in command of the necessary technique, commitment and power.
All of these attributes proved outside of the outside of AT's comfort zone today - usually avoids any route like this, steep, no significant rests, laybacking, jamming.
Managed to retrieve the gear before abandoning and lowering off.
AT regrouped to tackle Sickle Buttress (S 4a) further right.
A hard start is more than 4a by common consensus with two fingerlocks holding the key.
The traverse is polished and rather worrying in today's heat but leads to a fine finish.
Afternoon sun very hot now, CB helpfully opts for a very nice three star excursion up the amenable Heather Wall.
Tody's Wall will have to wait.
Along with all the other routes on AT's hit-list (below)
Just a touch over optimistic. Routes done highlighted.
Note that Broken Crack was not on the list.
Wonder why that is.......?
Plenty to justify a return.
Great setting.
Leave crag 16.35
Car 17.00
Strines 17.30
Home 18.00
Addendum
JP kindly provided these details documenting evidence previous visits from her JW days. May 2000 and May 2001 (latter with the GMan). Brilliant stuff from the vaults!