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Thursday, 22 June 2017

Wharncliffe Heat Wave

Wednesday 21st June
CB back into the loop after last week's drop out, standing in this week for BP who is soaking up the Dorset sun.  Weather north of Leeds very mixed so south bound again - according to my UKC it's been 10 years since we were at
Wharncliffe Crags
Although something tells me there's been a trip since then? (PS it was July 2008)  The crag is rather long and broken so planned to operate across three sectors, starting with the
Great Buttress Area



NB on Remus wondering what the Romans ever did for us



Soon in the flow














Beta not needed on this splendid severe



The little overlap

Move up right to lock onto the lay away



NB up for more roaming about on Romulus







CB operating at about 10% capacity

AT jumps a turn to bag the main route hereabouts- Great Buttress


Tricky lower section leads to some bold moves next to an unconvincing cam


NB helpfully points out the optional side runner

So stepped back down and whopped in a big bong!





Beginning to regret not being more diligent with gear in the lh rope.

Fortunately the finishing moves are straightforward enough apart from the snappy hold



CB gets himself going on the direct finish
(Just a Minute)
at E15b

No hesitation, deviation or repetition



Moving on
Puttrells Progress Sector

Starts with an amenable slab with three pleasant routes which seemed to go ok in the short sharp shower

Soon dried out




More pleasant climbing just As We Like It



CB follows in great shape



AT gives away his hiding place whilst making progress of sorts




Everyone seems to find it all very funny




So a quick swing out and launch across gets progress back on track



Plenty still to do but good holds lead to a steep finish


Masses of action packed into a mere 12m

The definition of
"Good Value"




Himmelswillin Sector

CB cruises up the final route



Sustained climbing to a rest out left before the final crack


Gear selection and placement impeccable as ever




NB shows Willing


Gott im Himmel!!

The Longest Day -  time well spent!


Note that route 8 gets HVD in the guide

Thursday, 15 June 2017

Stanage à Trois

Wednesday June 14th
CB's last minute hiccup left three to invent a day out at
Stanage Edge
Weather rather too warm to get far into the E grades so found some great friction at a more moderate level.  Plenty of people out at the crag, but our target buttress was pretty free so got straight into action just before noon.



After some debate BP get's the first lead on the books








NB follows BPs very tidy lead on Bishop's Route




More merriment follows on Robin Hood's something or other.


A big cam or two would have been handy on the lead, as it was three bongs and a sling was enough to keep the quivers away

Route finding not too difficult





NB shows willing in his scarlet shirt.....







Then makes a Bee line for a pleasant excursion




BP on Soft Shoe

Interesting and well protected




Ellis's Eliminate was tempting, but AT sets off on Right Twin Crack


Starts quite steady but toughens up

Perfect protection



NB polishes the session off with a nice Shuffle

 LR
Soft Shoe
Shuffle
Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct
Bishop's Route
Climber is on Inverted V (still there I imagine)













Friday, 2 June 2017

Please Sir can I have Some Moor

Thursday June 1st

A longish layoff for both of us, feeling the need to keep the comfort zone as big as possible - cue one of the default local options - the reliably welcoming Wainstones - but feeling a bit moorish so the extra helpings on offer over on Ravens Scar were too tempting to turn down.




Figured the ever improbable Sphinx Nose Traverse would do for starters


The bow in the blue rope is a clue to the way the wind was starting to get a bit tasty


But those pants are hot!







BP keeps cool, not making a meal of it, stuffing it with some top gear



Yummy


Lingered around for a couple more routes before the wind got too much

Hungry for moor.....  so popped over to Ravenscar

Only to find we'd been beaten to it by Cleveland's very own Mr TM and partner Mr MT, seen at Scugdale a few weeks back.

TM shows the way on Waterslide 
© Tony Marr




Had to get it done....


AT latches the crucial side pull to start the big rock over onto the second shelf.



The route above offers some welcome gear

(Contrary to UKC description)


Good value




The new DMM offsets went down well at both venues, very confidence inspiring bits of kit





More gear



BP followed with a determined wire brush

Left it better than we found it



Even the descent path got a good seeing to




BP on the fantastic Forest Face




Resolved to come back later this year for more of these under travelled routes









Postcards from the Fringe

May  14th - May 31st

Arrive Sunday - on specification trip in the VW

Monday - Fringe act "All Cashed In!"  Tribute to Johnny Cash by a slightly crazy Glaswegian

Tuesday - Late morning movie Alien Covenant at the Komedia

Evening show "Songs from the End of the World"



a bit Bonkers


Clip below





Breakfasts at Brooker taking care of catty


(note slight Tommy Cooper likeness)




whilst V&P do the Ferie in Jerez La Frontera




FLAMENCO!


Now the tree's been sorted there's a lot more light going in

Dazzling











Upgraded view


New paint job down on the esplanade



V&P back Friday
Saturday Curry night at 4th Avenue Mansions


Monday
Downs walking

Tuesday - Indian Street Food course with P at Kemptown Curry Leaf
Great stuff.

Then Adam Buxton Bowie BUG at the Theatre Royal

Here's an example of some of the very entertaining nonsense in the show.




Friday

Sheltering from the heat at the Ramblers Rest over lunch with S&R



More evening grub at The Urchin for man at seat 69!



Saturday - The Brighton Beach Boys do Magical Mystery Tour and Sgt Pepper


What a scene!



Sunday and Monday action with the Ilkeston Arrivals







Full on at the front

Sunday evening at Marroccos

All boxes ticked!



Monday afternoon on the i360

Stand by for lift off



365 feet up or there abouts

Evening at the Curry Leaf Ship St



Tuesday 30th

Finished of a fantastic fortnight with evening meal at Planet India!