Prime Lime

Sunday July 7th

There was talk of a trip to White Ghyll.  The colour plates in the new guide, and the prospect of some adventurous routes in a dramatic setting exerted a strong pull.  For a while.  Then someone thought a few things through, like a long drive in Sunday traffic, the prospect of a punishing walk in, the probability of a mini epic on some underestimated overbitten route, and a late return in a complete state of physical and mental exhaustion.  So common sense prevailed and a nice day at;

Twistleton Scar
.......emerged as a more appealing and amenable option.

R
i
b
b
l
e

AT leads out on Supreme White

The real difficulties come after the opening bulge.

Evening Star

Another good loosener

Another lead up Fretsaw has to be done

Worth much more than one star, great climbing and peerless protection.

BP passes the tasty crux on Angel Delight

A gold friend (2.5) takes care of business

AB ALERT

BP looks up past the semi-detached pinnacle of Angel Delight

More of this later

AT drawn to the compelling line of Superiority


Takes the hanging corner 3/4 the way up the pic

Good job the guide wasn't consulted




© BarrySW19 UKC

After a bit of a fiddle fest, AT gets to grips with the steep corner.  This leads to a shiny slab where friction is best prayed for until a long reach gains a spike and sling.

Finally a small ledge provides tranquility base and a bombproof #10 wire restores respiration.  We're breathing again!

BP follows via the guidebook line up the crozzly wall

Then keeps up the momentum and makes the running on the Ballad of the Irish Horse

After which AT goofs and throws the ab rope straight down into a complete jam behind the Pinnacle of Angel Delight.

So another route climbed to retrieve it.  All adds to the tally!

 L-R
Evening Star
Superiority (direct finish dotted)
Ballad of the Irish Horse
Supreme White
Fretsaw
Cold Feet
Angel Delight

Libations at the Kings Arms Hotel
Askrigg

Raven Return

Thursday July 4th

TM and gang out in the NYM so joined in for a session on the impressive buttresses of;

Raven's Scar

Morning rays highlight the features and facets of the brilliant rock on Airlift

EJ follows


A fantastic setting

JP leads the same line

TM making the first ascent of Waterslide RH in April 2019

AT repeated this minor classic with a bit of beta from the man himself.

© TM Apr 2019

 BP following AT's lead

Looks a bit blank but holds appear







BP in the classic position on Forest Face   

AT explores the gloomy recesses  of En Passant

Much much better than it looks

3D climbing, very entertaining

EJ shows the way on the overhanging direct finish of Via Anna



Romped up  it! 

AJ demonstrates the LH finish 

There's a secret hold there


Somewhere

BP inspired to lead the same route

Good gear up there!




Great day's climbing more to do on the next return!

Gardoms Jamboree

July 2nd 2019

Postponed holiday re-opens the loop to join back in with BP and CB on their recent grit quest.  Inspired by a UKC latest photo and returned to the shy buttresses at

Gardoms Edge

Tortuous drive through the uniformly red traffic lights of Sheffield city centre not to be repeated.  But arrived in decent time, wandered up through the wood and eventually found our target area.

AT grabs a plum route seeing as it's his turn to lead

Shameless

A bit bold for first route of the day

An offset at knee level helps to reduce the flutter factor before the moves up to the next break.

The top ten feet is run out

A great variety of techniques required on N.M.C

CB demonstrates one of them

BP makes some smooth shapes on Velvet Cracks

Fancy footwork and a sequence of edgy side pulls lead to a rewarding hand hold

CB follows in fine fashion

Six climbers and two dogs arrive and swarm all over Apple Buttress


Time to move on

AT locates a placement to protect the rather improbable moves up the leaning off width that bars the way up Garden Face Crack


Turned out that
improbability
exceeded
gullibility


CB steps up, reliable as ever

Some cunning moves to the right tame the forboding offwidth

BP repeats the sequence

Improbable

But good

The route regains gullibility and reverts to something like a pleasant outing

Cave Gully Crack is very steep and worth all of HS4b.


Hand jams have to stay in to support a tricky transition from here

A tough lead tamed by Mr P going well


More jams in today than the total so far this year

AT looks for the key to
Garden's Gate

Another improbable route that would surprise a Vdiff leader

CB ups the ante on Garden Face Direct VS5a

Fine open climbing to finish us off

BP looks at a long reach to a sloper

Sidepulls come in handy

It keeps coming

About the right band to go with my current form