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Saturday, 1 October 2016

Collar Heughly

Thursday 29 September
As forecast the day dawned bright and with a big wind.  Peak Edges definitely out, considered Corby's but in the end kept going to:-
Kyloe 
(Collar Heugh)
Hoping that the trees and natural lie of the land would limit the buffeting.  In good company with a group from a school in Ponteland.




CB gets suited up for an excursion up Gagarin's Groove (HVS 5a) on Space Buttress



The bulge was turned on the right
(left much easier but CB will have his way)

The crack takes two bombroof medium wires

CB gets them in



The groove is off vertical but

positive edges lead up to a juggy finish with another bombroof big wire going in.

I've eyed this route for 15 years it's great to get it done

Brilliant
Gagarin done
Up for a Spacewalk



CB gets a good sling on spike, but there is nothing after this

Turn on the anti-gravity and float out left




Then step round onto the front face

CB steadies himself before lighting up the boosters to power round the finishing bulge.

Awesome

AT follows after a fashion
(should have called him
Laika )



This route followed by retro grade onto Wilfred Prickles at a mere HVS 5a

Managed to get up that one
Although arm power now on the red line

Photo © JDal UKC with thanks


Back on the lead

The wind was really wild here on Flake Crack
(S 4b)

Very difficult to commit to crux moves with a hooly in the head

Got there eventually with some subtle encouragement from CB

The effort drained whatever was left in the tank

Three more favourites still to do!


CB Slab and Wall VS4c, direct no moves left


AT struggles to follow up with cramping hands


Fired the retro grade and found some flow on Mo at S4a

Then....





Deception Crack HS 4b **
One last Hurrah!

Deceptively good footwork


AT recovers some reserves and form to follow no drama


 All the right routes
Not necessarily in the right order
All grades as per UKC
(Wilfred Prickles up from VS! holds snapping off)








Wednesday, 21 September 2016

Holy Rock

19th September
Recovered from Thursdays bake off - climate returning to seasonal averages thank God - so in that spirit set the co-ordinates for St John's in the Vale and a repeat visit to.....
Church Crag
NB and PM a visited few weeks ago,
NB and AT back in a very cold Feb 2103

Unfortunately pics somewhat AT-centric
Will have to invest in some remote control bluetooth triggered gadget


Playground LR
Cottontail VD
Carricks Climb D
Confidence D
Roger Rabbit VS 4b
Flopsy MVS 4b
All about 12m and with very shiny bolt belays all across the top made for a user friendly session and satisfying climbing

AT bolted in at top of Cottontail.
Blencathra provides an omnipotent background.





Confidence building. Faith in friction is easy to find in this micro-granite medium.


Roger Rabbit at VS 4b looked in need of a bit of a fettle before getting on the lead





Finally found something useable to provide an acceptable margin of safety. a number 2 wire and a medium cam combo.



So

Gear in

Chalk up

A couple more moves and .........


.....prayers answered with two more God-given placements

That old time religion is good enough for me



It's good enough for you












Photomontage alert

Crux on Flopsy
One good wire, made sure it set, didn't kick it out.
(cf last visit)


Holds are up there

All you got to do is believe



Just a quickstep to the right then time for a big
PHEW!







A full 7 minute walk back to the car
Bramcrag Quarry, with its fully bolted Devil's work, catches the late sun left of centre
Get behind me Satan.

Horse and Farrier - outlook
Best not to mention the bench episode








Various Guitar Greats

Saturday, 17 September 2016

Best of the West

Saturday 17th September

Been back a week time for a Lakes fix.  Perfect weather for a stride out down the west side, a regular route that never fails to deliver - today it looks as good as it can ever be.

No parties on the crag!



Plenty on the shore














Lunch spot




Bird on the scrounge for left over scraps




Last leg - Skiddaw heather starting to show


9km

Just caught 15.20 bus back to Grange

Cracking day out up there with the best


Friday, 16 September 2016

Sticky Rock

Thursday 15th September
Back from the South - a day out long overdue (+4 weeks) - getting a bit twitchy.  The summer keeps on giving with another warm week.  PM last man standing and well up for action.  Had thought about a session at WF but given possible limitations opted for the much loved
Castle Rock of Triermainagain

One other party present, arrived in a bit of a lather with humidity up near 100%, and when the sun came out properly things got really sticky - fortunately the rock retained its wonderful frictional properties and provided the usual superb climbing and entertainment.




AT steams up the second route of the day

The oddly named Slab Climb

(given the fnish is up a very steep corner)

Beta Alert

(As provided later to AH)

Move up

Side pull on the right
Right foot into base of corner
Left foot onto hold out left

Rock over

Keep calm and carry on









Spirits high in the tropical heat











Next up
Yew Tree Climb P2



PM on a very sharp end

Slabby moves lead to
a steep groove

Juggy

Great gear




Despatched

No fuss

No frenzy

Just sticky



From the belay

View across to today's company on Via Media

Blencathra lost in the humid haze


More company

Uncle Al again!!

Had a look at the bold steep corner

Then opts for a safer finish up Lilith



Wall climb

With one point of Adobe aid
Final scramble to finish a well paced session on quite a challenging day given the heat and humidity
 Uncle Al just visible at he start of Gangway Climb
(by the tree just right of the centre sky line)
Next stop
The Sportsman!
All route lengths are as per guide book so we claim 113m!



Wednesday, 14 September 2016

Indian Summer in the Wild West

Tuesday 13th September

Mini Heatwave - up to 25

Repeat the walk done earlier with H*2



No mud on the tracks here




Tees
 Teesdale

Romaldkirk

And a welcome refreshment at the Rose and Crown

Friday, 9 September 2016

Seaside and Out

Extended stay coming to a close, what a spell!
Great weather mostly
Together the People Festival Sunday 5th
Abortive attempt to ride the i360 (It broke down!)
Trip to Arundel
Walking the Devils Dike on the Downs
Cinema One More Time with Feeling
Eats at Polpos, Planet India again, exchanging meals in with V&P
Visit Hove Art Gallery
Cheerio Amber and Tom at #5
SWIMMING!! with V and B
Work on bathroom under  way
Sofa no show!!!
Apart from last item ALL GOOD!

Together The People



Hooky rocks Preston Park!










Beach life


We're Domed!
 




Down the Devil Dike Drive


Plenty scope for good days out up here!

Nice pub down round the corner in the valley




Arundel

More pics here


One More Time with Feeling


iPhone lens not up to a right angle for the i360



Blowing a hooly on the front
Hat tied on tight