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Thursday, 11 October 2018

Lakes Gold

10 October

Freak warm one day wonder, no option but to head west and marvel at the season of mist and mellow fruitfulness in full glory - Grasmere to Ambleside

5 miles
555 bus back (599 actually!)









Wednesday, 10 October 2018

Quantum Grit

October 9th

Once you've described the electron field, the quark field, the gluon field, and the Higgs field, then that's everything covered, or so the theory goes.  But a dedicated bunch of boffins are still busy experimenting with the;
Lawrencefield

Nothing discreet about the gang of five who turned up on a glorious autumn morning to push some gritstone equations to the limits of known principles and beyond.


Three Trees Climb catches all the photons going early in the day so gets done straight out of the text book




NB follows this with a speedy lead on Snail Crack




BP summons up the energy to tackle the steep finish on Tyrone






Ready to turn up the power



The electron field shimmers in readiness



Once again the ab-routine helped to put a big
t into the day.





CB opts to address the compelling line that is Great Harry.

In this region gravity is doubled whilst friction is halved


Problematic




BP keeps going

So does the route, relentlessly




CB on the event horizon

BP nears the metabolical limit






AT juggles uncertainty and probability some way above the last gear on Gingerbread




BP passes the same spot later on








Best not to verify that;

v2  =  u2 + 2fs
at this point in space and time





 
CB found some gear on Meringue, having stuffed siderunners into Gingerbread just by.




CC pronounced it tasty, verified by BP as bomber.



Future lead?





Unknown climber on Great Peter

E15b








BP has seen things you people would not believe




NB demonstrates photon multiplying garb


More pics here

Note CC also 2nd routes












Tuesday, 2 October 2018

Peak Repeaters

Monday October 1st

This week's window opens early.  Party of three gets out of the brisk north westerlies and with a good chance of some rays at this year's
Go-To Gritstone venue:-

Yarncliffe Quarry

In a bit of a quarry quandary but Yarncliffe gets the vote over the neighbouring Lawrencefield to take advantage of the ongoing dry conditions while they last.





BP well wrapped up on Latecomer.

Maybe a bit too early, sun not round yet.





All a bit dusty



AT on the small holds low down on Ant's Wall





Much cleaner

Good climbing on positive edges















DC follows in fine style




BP keeps going to get good gear on the LH start of Cardinal's Arete



Undercut hold provides the key to progress up the route





BP phones for a friend then commits to the run out climax











No more gear from here, some bold moves lead to a steady finish






AT returns to Cardinal Slab

Scene of a rather disappointing effort in July


Hmmmm

© Smoreda UKC




Crux moves


Small holds, feels precarious



Inside foot makes the good hold next to a size 1/2 wire


DC said it was a stopper so that's ok then.

More good moves and it's done!!




BP opts for another grapple with Zapple


Ready for a big reach across to the main crack line




BP makes it look quite a bit easier second time round



AT doesn't......


Thanks to DC for extra pics


More pics click here





Thursday, 27 September 2018

Return of the Quarrymen

September 26th

BP been away for a while - time to get the band back together.

Between the northern low and southern high there had to be a climbing window to peek through.  Derbyshire looked a good bet - but somewhere sheltered from the westerlies squeezed between the two weather systems. So must be good to have another look around the climbing at;


Lawrencefield

Snail Crack seemed a sensible route to get going, surprisingly tricky at the grade best not to rush it.



BP takes care of the final moves on Nova


Just as well it's all a bit flat and dusty up on the top




BP rapps off with matching top and rope


The finishing wall of Tyrone leans out on the left

Tempting





AT succumbs

Gathering all gumption ready to tackle the sustained section coming up




Turn up the boosters and power up




Limpopo lives up to its name in the lower third but was clean and  dry higher up





The crux moves are satisfyingly close to the top


The gear is big and bountiful


BP impresses a large gathering of field tripping students and gets a big round of applause on topping out



The next route follows the steep twisting crack on the left.


It's three years since AT backed off this with a fit of the gibbers.





Time to man up


The gear is great so why not keep going?

Good to get it done




BP stuffs up the crack and takes a bite out of Gingerbread


Run out finish not for the faint hearted



One more abb for the road




A short walk leads to the as yet untested Roadside Bay

AT tackles a rather oddly named route and finds it quite amenable at the grade

The Big Red Jacket (The Last Wet Wednesday)

Other routes hereabouts either too hard, too bold, or too uninspiring.

 

 



So back to the main bay for a stirling finish up Three Trees Climb

 

 

A great days climbing for the return of BP from his various travels

 

 

Meanwhile a solo shunter makes the most of the late afternoon rays on Boulevard at E3 5c

Bryn Ferranti is 73 today