North Buttress All Stars

 31st August.  

Back in 2016 AT and BP in good form put together an Ardus  / Adam combo plus a big one pitch effort up Brown Slabs.

Six years down the road and it felt about time to do another version of that "Would you Adam and Eve it?" episode.  See here .  But this time include Eve in the mix replacing the Ardus sideshow.  Here's the plan.

CB P1 Adam,  >   AT P2-3 Eve

AT P1 Eve,     >   CB P2 Adam

CB to lead Delight Maker (possible) or AT a route on Brown Slabs as part of route back to car (probable).    All these routes are rated three stars at Borrowdale's number one roadside venue.

Shepherds Crag

CB had to be back by 17.00 so with a 07.30 start we were ready to go at 09.45 from the base of the awkward bulky pillar of P1 of Adam.

The plan swung into action, CB made that first 5a pitch look easy.  AT didn't, but managed without the CB winch action.   

Eve P2 and P3 (left) 

Adam P2 (right)

Delight Maker goes up the middle, crossing P2 and P3 of Eve.

All set on belay P1.  

AT led though up and round the arete, gained the slab on P2 and wandered left ever further from the two small friends back there somewhere.  Eventually some delicate moves led to a couple of big wires and Tranquility Base was landed.  

From there P3 features great exposed positions and gear.

Setting out across P2's upward traverse.  

A low-fi mash up from an original by

rockrat ©

Adam VS 5a

AT led P1 (belay as per Adam).

CB before the crux moves up and right

Head left here for the Eve option

AT would have done well to copy this shape about 20 minutes later.  Went too high up left and lost pressure on right foot.  See you later Biggles!

Adam and Eve again share same belay, on ab-station plus another good spike.

New double ropes working well.  

Abbing off saved a lot of time despite a spot of bother retrieving the ropes first go, no parties following.

Although Delight Maker (HVS 5a) was handy, AT's gullibometer wasn't quite far enough over.

CB reckoned a change of scene would do us good, so we wandered over to Brown Slabs.

AT not up for an argument so went along to keep the peace😵

"A fantastic pitch of remarkably sustained interest"  (Rockfax)

Both sacks and all gear to the top.  From there direct to the car park.

And from there straight to the.....!!

Tales of derring do!

All routes 3 stars.

Sticky Fingers

Back at 16.57

Love it when a plan comes together

Moor Marauding

 Thursday 26th August

Tuesday trip to Scugdale cancelled, to be replaced on Wednesday by a Thursday Brimham plan, to be replaced on Thursday morning following a fair bit of overnight rain.  So we ended up where we started at;

Scugdale (Scot Crags)

A watery sun gave way to actual spots of rain on arrival, and although there was not a breath of wind the rock was totally dry.  Right hand end occupied by a group so we got busy with the rope out left on Scot Buttress.

Corner Left Hand (S 4a)

Steady climbing 

From here up to another small foothold

The handholds up there are.... well,

BIG!

CB sets out up Gravity Wall

Ready to move right for the variation finish 

"Defying Gravity" at 4c is another grade up from the usual way trending left.

CB reaching for more gear to take care of the powerful moves in prospect on Scugdale Chimney Eliminate      (VS 4c)

AT managed to get far enough up to retrieve these bits of gear.

Except the one in the top break which remained way out of reach.

AT (ever obliging) led up the Chimney so CB could sweep it up

CB finishes the day off with one of his favourites?

Pet's Arete (VS 4c)

He can't leave it alone.

More County Lines

 Thursday 18th August

Continuing the County climbing series, looking for a change of scene from the regular venues so undertook a long drive crossing wide open country, past ancient battlements, and through country estates  to the delightfully user friendly rootin' tootin flutin' walls of;

Berryhill 

This picture from last visit four years ago and the gorse is now starting to grow head high below the opening routes on the flutes

Here's AT in the same spot

AT rampant on this lovely climbing

So is the gorse

CB prepares to toot the flutes on Hi Diddle Diddle (VS 4b)

Playing some good tunes higher up

AT contemplates the slant on Slanting Crack (HVD 4a)

Opts for a direct finish straight up

Marcher Lord (VS 5a) was always in today's mission.  Both going well so CB kindly went first (again!).

It's an imposing line with a 

BIG FINISH

© OLGrady UKC

CB about to launch upwards 

Jugs are out of sight ready to help with the powerful moves out left.

All done with minimum fuss as usual

AT followed in good order, would have been a gulping lead.

AT opts for the alternate way up to Western Arete (VS 4c)

That's why it's a separate route called Cheat (VD)

Nonetheless it's quite an adventurous outing as per this picture from 2018, like today the wind was well up.

CB showed how it's done following the line up from the left

Very tough start, 5a at least.

Eastern Arete (S 4a) is good value two star climbing

The finish round the arete is suddenly steep, by now the wind was really gusting. 

Steep finish The Flange's the Thang!

Guess who on the same route from the Northern Rockfax Guide picture

©UKC Articles

CB whipped up a route to finish off, somewhere right of Marcher Lord going left of a tree.  Not described in any guide

L-R

The Flutings

Hey Diddle Diddle

Marcher Lord

(Not in guide)

Slanting Crack

Eastern Arete

©27 crags

End of day

Brighter

Windy

Alexa!

Play Walking the Dog!

Dr Feelgood

Loughing it

 Saturday August 13th

Temperatures now in the late twenties.  Wish we were.  Home alone for the weekend so a big day up a big mountain crag out west had been mooted.  The prospect of the long drive on packed roads into the busy Lake District, plus tricky parking and a sweltering long walk in led to a rethink.   How about an easy drive with guaranteed parking to a nice shady crag?  Where else but;

Crag Lough

Eight a.m. start and a nine thirty arrival.  A great drive started under blue skies then later featuring wondrous atmospherics, with views across to an east coast blanketing in thick cloud, then swirling mists with sun burning through in the Tyne Valley.   Walked in (25 mins) and wasted no time getting stuck into AT's pre-prepared hit list (thanks to BP for introducing this concept!)

No sign of Robin or Maid Marian

Starting out on Face Route 

A very pleasant climb (at S4a) and is surely worth a star given the airy traverse to the finishing cracks.

Can't believe it's seven years since the last visit, on a similar hot day.  See here for details. 

Here's BP in action higher up the route on that trip.

CB found guide left behind at foot of next route.  Open at this page featuring none other than..........??

CB below the crux of Route One 

(HVS 5a)

The first ascensionist (whoever it was) showed no imagination for naming this compelling line.

Scorpion an obvious contender.

AT has a rest after a bit of toe jamming up the corner

More work needed on that particular technique (see later).

The top of the route features an airy belay off two bomber slings.

Pinnacle Face (VS 4c) is just round the other side of same buttress.

CB dips some chalk before launching up the crux

A hidden hold deep in the cleft helps the move onto the main face, CB cruising up the final five metres.

Loughly climbing.

Meanwhile another pair go roamin up Hadrian's Buttress.

A legiondary route.

AT on Jezebel Direct.  The obvious leaning corner succumbs to solid toe jamming technique and awareness of small but useful holds.

Unfortunately AT was missing both of those and had a rather desperate struggle.  CB helpfully pointed out the one useful foothold and things went better second go. 

Another solid belay up in the hades of Hadrian heat..

Time for one more, to save on the walk down and the lumpy track back to the sacks they were carried up the climb.

Bit like climbing in the Alps.  Apart from the scale.

A really brilliant middle section higher up.

The refreshments in Corbridge were particularly welcome, what a great day on and off the crag!

Red hot white boy blues