Quayfoot Buttress
Quayfoot Buttress (VD) BP, AT
Abberration (MVS 4c) AT, BP
Woden's Face
Woden's Face Direct (Variation 4b) AT, BP
Custard Creme (MVS 4c) BP, AT
After an uncertain weather forecast committed ourselves west and were rewarded with a fine day on two bone dry crags after the recent warm spell. Was last here 12 years ago (JW). Abberation has been on the list for a while so it was good to get it done. Plenty of time for the hop across to Woden's Face, arriving just as the large group was packing up... Great!
Setting out on Quayfoot Buttress P2
First 20m full of star quality.
Much better than Sep 2002, when it was damp and scrappy
P1 is quite ok too.
Abberation P1
Up one more move then delicate transition above gear onto the RH face, then more awkward moves through a short off width to a stance.
Got the kettle boiling a bit.....
Route.
P1 mostly hidden by trees
Pic is from June 2009, CB is on "The Crypt" HVS 5a
with MB and son
P2 crux is at start, committing move to gain the slab
After the crux (bottom centre) it's a while before gear arrives.
BP gets it in
Again from 2009, CB and MB on "Irony" HVS 5a
At the bottom left a climber is mid crux on Abberation P2
Below to the left a climber (another A Thomson!) makes thin moves on "Between the Lines" E2 5c
Chatted to him on belay - his kettle had definitely boiled up!
Woden's Face Direct
Variation surmounts the big block.
AT finds more gear
(then swaps blue for yellow to make sense of the ropes)
Bit of a struggle getting the leg over - had to invoke the famous knee trick.
"Have to go back - Jack - and do it again"
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