BP in Dorset, AT in Hove. Fairly simple train journey opens up a window into 2 days of climbing on the glorious Isle of Purbeck.
Venues;
Hedbury Quarry just west of Dancing Ledge
Winspit - due South of Worth Matravers
Three routes at Hedbury (see day 2 below)
Waited a while to get on a 6a but the bloke on it was spending forever trying to get to the third bolt.
No amount of "help" from his mates did any good
Go on Stu!
You can do it!
Just commit!
etc.
BP lost the will so we moved on to Winspit
About 30 mins along the coastal path
Tom's Patience (4+) highlighted and climbed
Climbers on Stone Mason (6a+)
BP gave it his all but it wouldn't go
Neither would Resin Devotion at 6a .......
Weather improving at end of day's climbing
Stone Mason (red dot shows height of first clip!)
Tom's Patience (green arrow)
Two pints of Moonlight (each!). Hit the spot!
Regroup and eat out with visiting neighbours. Regale dutifully with Tales of Derring Do.
Day 2
Tuesday morning bright with a chilly north east breeze
Leave Dawn's place (R) for trip to Dancing Ledge (quarry plus lower tier)
AT basks in the glory of a clean 5+ lead (highlighted)
From there everything went pretty much to pants, BP backs off the next 2 routes at 6a and 5+
AT didn't trouble himself making any kind of effort whatsoever over and above belaying. All looked too hard and lairy.
The four top ropes on the lower tier were somewhat more amenable
Short walk to Hedbury Quarry to have another looky there
Repeated routes from Day 1 in much warmer weather
Moral Flexibility (5) on right
New Age New Style (5+)
Tethered by Gravity (4+)
The grade is a bit stiff once you know where the obscure holds are.
BP gets them again!
To finish off BP has a crack at
Goddamm Sexual Tyrannosarus (5c)
(Waited too long on day 1)
It was reported as "highly polished" ten years ago!
It still is.
By the end of day 2 we are getting the hang of orderly and honorable(?) retreats
Next stop. PUB!
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