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Thursday 21 April 2022

Eden Valley Esoterica

 Wednesday 20th April

In keeping with an effort to avoid Easter hot-cross-spots, we continue the consideration of less well travelled venues, and stuck with the plan mooted in the Jet Miners last Friday.  So we travelled just over the Pennines into the Eden Valley.  A sylvan glade up above the river Lyvennet reveals numerous bays of rough limestone feature soaring cracks, corners and faces, taking its name from the nearby hamlet of;

Kings Meaburn

Also known as Jackdaw Scar and home of some of AT's early climbing escapades with JW and the Gman.  Last visited (briefly) with BP in 2009!  The pre blog-world!


Lovely dappled light creates a delightful atmosphere.

Rock dry and quite clean, some chalk in evidence here and there.  Perfect climbing conditions.


Not a soul about, tranquility rules.



Bay Rum at VD takes the obvious leaning corner, which is surprisingly steep (as are all the routes here).  The corner  is too big for any of our gear and other placements are hard to find.  Plenty of adventure at the grade then!


Archive picture looking down the route.  The big tree is now on the ground and has created some very useful benches for sorting gear, having coffee etc.

Image (c) abowland climber



Colin gets ready to tackle Ged (MVS4c) the compelling crack line on the adjacent wall.


Again very steep until the difficulties ease at 2/3 height.



CB efficient as ever


AT follows cleanly, excellent route.


(Photo-montage)



AT summoned up maxi-gumption to overcome the steep, bold and intimidating start of Kirsten Wall HS4b 

(otherwise a very nice route!)


Climber is on Scarlet  Lyvenett MVS 4b (will have to come back and do that one)


Image (c) abowland climber

 Then CB upped the ante to make a fine lead on Marik (pictured).

(H?) VS 5a.

Havnor (VS5a) is 4 metres left.  AT led some of it, then retreated unselfishly so CB could do the more exciting bit higher up.

Give Give Give!


Image (c) abowland climber


The Flake (HS 4b)

"A fine climb which requires a determined approach"

Colin had one of those handy so he led up it.

Leaving AT to finish on Percy Throwup (VD) after some serious gardening to reveal the holds buried under a carpet of ivy.  Had a bit of a gibber when a hold came loose.




Life's a beech

Lyvennet up!
Routes 5 and 6 worth a star
















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