Friday 16th June
CB returns from Peak Sport to get back with a trad programme. Whitestone Cliff mooted but given the lack of much in the way of routes that long of late, opted for a session at the rarely frequented;
Slipstones
Arrived at the layby 10.30, CB already there fresh from an early appointment in Thirsk. Dentist had made short work of repairs. England in grip of a heat wave, but temperatures up north not reaching the southern extremes. Still pretty warm but there is plenty of friction here. So hot grit is no excuse to let the grades slip down as the heat goes up.
These two obvious lines came next, AT repeated Not So Tight Chimney (climbing needs a good deal more imagination than the name).
After lunch CB waltzed up the big layback to the left.
AT couldn't manage any kind of dance, goes down as a DNF.
Not for the want of trying, four attempts. Gave it all physically, but didn't think about options
AT switched to the arete on Bedlin Block and made the delicate footwork stick on Tranmire Arete.
CB moved a few metres right to take on Easy Pickings (VS 4c)
Steep climbing characterises most routes at this crag. No exception here.
Crux is low down but it keeps going all the way.
AT makes a short traverse to reach the finishing holds of Aces High (VS 4c).
The good ledge on the right was a powerful lure, unfortunately once gained it was too high to reach back right to place good gear in the break at knee height. So the finish is unnecessarily bold.
Went down and did it again properly with gear in there. CB belaying from the top.
CB still has plenty of gas in the tank to make a clean ascent of Ellingstring (VS 4c).
By this time AT running on fumes and needed a very tight rope and a rest to top it out.
Fortunately refuelling only half an hour away.
Work-rate per meter in the red zone
Released
This day
50 years
Ago
Stuck
on
my
ears
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