The Gunter Tapes old version: Peak Efficiency

Friday, 15 July 2022

Peak Efficiency

Thursday June 14th

There's a lapse in the heatwave for a few days, best conditions further south, the Peak is far enough, so options galore. In the interests of maximum mileage opted for the shortest walk in possible and the most user friendly venue in the area. It had to be;

Yarncliffe

Last trip there 2018, we were going well then with the crag in excellent condition throughout. Details here

Today's mission a bit less ambitious, up the mileage, maximise movement, build confidence, push the envelope just a bit.

Five routes on this wall

Car parked about 45 seconds walk away

This sector all the ingredients. Jamming here, crimping there, some small footholds, the occasional smear and plenty of gear. (some to be found in the boot of the car).

BP brushing his way up Ant's Crack (S 4a).

Delightful despite the sandy holds, the new brush comes in really handy here.

Latecomer (HS 4b) is also highly entertaining

Red pants de rigeur today

The forecast rain showers missed us and the rest of the day offered perfect climbing conditions with a clean sweep in prospect.

Ant's Wall (HS 4a) offers more delicate moves, a bold start leads to good gear and absorbing climbing

Angular Climb

AT opts for the variation (at S 4a) to avoid the scruffy crack by keeping to the wall on the left. Hard to resist side runners all the way.

Much nicer, moving back right just below the top.

The alternate start to Cardinal's Arete (VS 4b) avoids the strenuous 4c opening moves but is quite technical and protection is a bit hard to place whilst hanging off small holds.

The red friend fits a slot here perfectly.

BP looks at the long span left that leads back to the arete proper.

That red friend also essential for a critical placement higher up.

BP gets by with some side runners today, must take two next time!

All Ant's ticked of but this one. Inspected on abseil.

Ant's Arete (VS 4a). Thin moves on obscure footholds and sloping hands between small rests suggest a somewhat stiffer grade.

A lone #1 wire is all there is for quite a way.

There is finally a nest of gear options from this ledge to take care of more tenuous moves to finish the last 4 metres or so.

AT's gear also included a blue friend just right of the small Rock Empire.

BP on 2nd found room for a yellow Metolious and #4 rock between that and the RH wire.

Collectively that would make 6.

Fall Pipe looked in very good condition. It called to us but so did the pub.

One to come back to, AT's turn for the lay back epic at VS 4c.

Go-to Gear of the Day award goes to this new addition making its debut on the harness.

Invaluable on this dusty part of the crag. All holds left nice and tidy for the evening gang arriving as we left on the arduous forty five second trek back to the car.