Search This Blog

Wednesday, 23 August 2023

Corby Blimey

 Tuesday 22nd August

Had a planned lunch cancelled, so the climbing window sprung a latch and we were off on the A1 again, this time north to have another go at getting some routes done at what has to be one of Northumberland's most scenic venues;

Corby's Crag

Eight years ago paid a visit there with NB.  We retreated in some ignominy after struggling on two of the easier routes.  This time determined to make some kind of dent on the guidebook!  

Great vista from the lay by.


AT all geared up and enjoying a solid hand jam at the start of today's first route.  Might come in handy later.

Jazzy new 60cm extenders make debut.



AT pussyfooting a way up The Plonka (S 4a)

These moves feel quite tenuous at the grade.  

Friction?  It's a long way from Stanage.


A team from Sheffield Uni joined in (travelled up from Newcastle).  Started out on Plonka as well

AT had a go at reaching this position direct for the final lead of the day (Crossover S4a)


It didn't go well.  At all.


CB on the second of 2 routes on this wall.  The other one follows the flake to the left.

Both VS 4c, both good.  


LH route very bold start on steep rock.  Belayer holding breath.



Overunder follows a rising traverse around three bulges  (arrow)

Climber is on Plonka

AT leading Overunder (HS 4b).

Friction a bit better here.



Good gear in.

AT revels in a superb jam and moves on up



Had a look at Audacity at the left hand end, look very sustained so given seven routes done chose this fine line up the RH buttress.  LP (VS 4c).

Great moves up to a balancy finish left on poor hand holds above the last gear.

Spicy.



Winding down after a cracking day.

Crag now fully rehabilitated.




The County at its best


12 - Crossover


13 - Plonka

15 Scotsmans Way

16 First Opportunity

17  Scotsmans Way

2
Misrepresentation

Nuts Wall

4
LP




Topos (c) UKC with thanks.
Notes; Crossover required a mix of  tactics, a bit of a headbanger
            Nuts Wall took two goes to get up crux, crucial hold has been broken off.
"June 2023. The crucial hold for the rock over from the top of the crack onto the good resting ledge has sheared off making the move harder."  (UKC comment)



All the way from 1971
















Friday, 18 August 2023

Feeling Peaky

 Thursday August 17th

We opted for an indoor session at Harrogate on Tuesday, it turned out the weather down there was good enough to have carried on for an outside day at Almscliff.  That missed opportunity stoked the appetite for some grit action, the weather looked favourable for Derbyshire so we swerved left down the A1 and bombed down to Mega-grit central.  It has to be;

Stanage Edge (North)

In the interests of less travelled, less polished routes parked up at the northern and headed up to the area left of High Neb.  Apart from one group at High Neb there were no other parties up there, Cosmic Buttress and Crow Chin were deserted all day, we had all those routes to ourselves.  And the midges.  Although they went away in the bright afternoon sun and the freshening easterly.


CB homing in on the target sector



There it is


Cosmic Crack Buttress


AT hoping for weaker gravity up there.

New 30m Mammut rope makes debut.

Beanpod (S4a)

AT led to the high break, but missed a crucial foothold to exit the pod.   CB took over and showed the way.

Next up:- 

AT gets an X-Ray at HS 4b.   One piece of aid helps get off the ground (legs too long!!)


Moved along to Crow Chin

CB on October Slab 

(HS 4b)


A classic bit of Binks bridgering overcomes the awkward overlap.




Excellent climbing all the way

AT follows no aid no drama

AT took a turn up Kelly's Crack (HVD) up the left facing corner.


CB finishes off a great afternoon with a steady lead on Feathered Friends at VS 4c.  Protection there when needed.

This route felt the most amenable of the whole day, apart from one move.  Who the dickens is grading this crag?



Walk out 25 minutes



Hat complete with easterly wind effects 




Cosmic Crack area

L - Beanpod (AT up to ?, CB remainder)
"Whilst gear is great the moves out of the pod felt about 4c being strict with line."  UKC commentator

R -      X - Ray

L-R
Feathered Friends
Kellys Crack
October Slab

Total of five routes done, about 50m.  But a lot of effort!

Visited this area in 2007, climbed with BP
Last visit to Stanage October 2017 (BP)


View towards Goliath's Groove sector













Thirty Eight

 Wednesday 16th August





38 years ago it was our big day, not that anybody is counting..


Marked the event with a trip to the coast

Drive over the moors to Sandsend

Gifted with glorious sunshine


Still smiling!



Fabulous walk to Whitby



Slap up lunch at the Magpie.

Stuffed!!

The walk back burned some of the calories off

10% maybe




Tuesday, 8 August 2023

Scot Crags Spare

 7th August

CB on a mini-break with Denmark based buddy over for a visit.  After 2 wall sessions feeling the need to get out.  A couple of feelers put out, all enquiries made, and headed off to the NY Moors to drop in on my mentor NP in action with a group at;

Scot Crags Scugdale

Got roped in (??) to help look after two pairs gaining points towards the RCI qualification.  Turned out to be a very enjoyable day providing some spare head, hands and feet in support of the main man.



View from walk in


Seconding Corner Left Direct


Not easy having a good time


Only ever one first day outside

Only ever one first trad lead


Talking of which, this from 25 years ago minus a month




Jo popped by to say Hi!


This photo almost as old.