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Friday, 18 August 2023

Feeling Peaky

 Thursday August 17th

We opted for an indoor session at Harrogate on Tuesday, it turned out the weather down there was good enough to have carried on for an outside day at Almscliff.  That missed opportunity stoked the appetite for some grit action, the weather looked favourable for Derbyshire so we swerved left down the A1 and bombed down to Mega-grit central.  It has to be;

Stanage Edge (North)

In the interests of less travelled, less polished routes parked up at the northern and headed up to the area left of High Neb.  Apart from one group at High Neb there were no other parties up there, Cosmic Buttress and Crow Chin were deserted all day, we had all those routes to ourselves.  And the midges.  Although they went away in the bright afternoon sun and the freshening easterly.


CB homing in on the target sector



There it is


Cosmic Crack Buttress


AT hoping for weaker gravity up there.

New 30m Mammut rope makes debut.

Beanpod (S4a)

AT led to the high break, but missed a crucial foothold to exit the pod.   CB took over and showed the way.

Next up:- 

AT gets an X-Ray at HS 4b.   One piece of aid helps get off the ground (legs too long!!)


Moved along to Crow Chin

CB on October Slab 

(HS 4b)


A classic bit of Binks bridgering overcomes the awkward overlap.




Excellent climbing all the way

AT follows no aid no drama

AT took a turn up Kelly's Crack (HVD) up the left facing corner.


CB finishes off a great afternoon with a steady lead on Feathered Friends at VS 4c.  Protection there when needed.

This route felt the most amenable of the whole day, apart from one move.  Who the dickens is grading this crag?



Walk out 25 minutes



Hat complete with easterly wind effects 




Cosmic Crack area

L - Beanpod (AT up to ?, CB remainder)
"Whilst gear is great the moves out of the pod felt about 4c being strict with line."  UKC commentator

R -      X - Ray

L-R
Feathered Friends
Kellys Crack
October Slab

Total of five routes done, about 50m.  But a lot of effort!

Visited this area in 2007, climbed with BP
Last visit to Stanage October 2017 (BP)


View towards Goliath's Groove sector













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