Scot Free

Saturday September 2nd

BP checked in with a window between one Riviera and another,  what's more the weather turned up great on the same day, perfect conditions for a tour of the some of the classics at;

Scot Crags Scugdale

A bloke with his young daughter were just finishing off as we arrived towards midday.  For the rest of the afternoon nobody else showed up, what's going on, where is everybody?  

A few warm ups, then three routes in the Saints Wall bay.  The alternate RH start on Saints Wall feels a bit tenuous.  A spot of lunch then onwards and upwards.

BP leads out on Pets Corner

No sign of any lay off drop off in form

AT threads a way up Whippet Wall

Pup's Climb has good gear.

In the lower half.

BP runs it out to the next gear 

Which arrives to take care of the final moves

AT invents a route up the RH side of Scugdale Chimney

A bit contrived, goes at maybe S4b with a powerful start

And borrows gear from the left hand side

BP points out a missed opportunity for a good wire in the short vertical crack on the RH face.

Next time !

BP 

Next stop

Riviera!

Corby Blimey

 Tuesday 22nd August

Had a planned lunch cancelled, so the climbing window sprung a latch and we were off on the A1 again, this time north to have another go at getting some routes done at what has to be one of Northumberland's most scenic venues;

Corby's Crag

Eight years ago paid a visit there with NB.  We retreated in some ignominy after struggling on two of the easier routes.  This time determined to make some kind of dent on the guidebook!  

Great vista from the lay by.

AT all geared up and enjoying a solid hand jam at the start of today's first route.  Might come in handy later.

Jazzy new 60cm extenders make debut.

AT pussyfooting a way up The Plonka (S 4a)

These moves feel quite tenuous at the grade.  

Friction?  It's a long way from Stanage.

A team from Sheffield Uni joined in (travelled up from Newcastle).  Started out on Plonka as well

AT had a go at reaching this position direct for the final lead of the day (Crossover S4a)

It didn't go well.  At all.

CB on the second of 2 routes on this wall.  The other one follows the flake to the left.

Both VS 4c, both good.  

LH route very bold start on steep rock.  Belayer holding breath.

Overunder follows a rising traverse around three bulges  (arrow)

Climber is on Plonka

AT leading Overunder (HS 4b).

Friction a bit better here.

Good gear in.

AT revels in a superb jam and moves on up

Had a look at Audacity at the left hand end, look very sustained so given seven routes done chose this fine line up the RH buttress.  LP (VS 4c).

Great moves up to a balancy finish left on poor hand holds above the last gear.

Spicy.

Winding down after a cracking day.

Crag now fully rehabilitated.

The County at its best

12 - Crossover

13 - Plonka

15 Scotsmans Way

16 First Opportunity

17  Scotsmans Way

2

Misrepresentation

3 

Nuts Wall

4

LP

Topos (c) UKC with thanks.

Notes; Crossover required a mix of  tactics, a bit of a headbanger

            Nuts Wall took two goes to get up crux, crucial hold has been broken off.

"June 2023. The crucial hold for the rock over from the top of the crack onto the good resting ledge has sheared off making the move harder."  (UKC comment)

All the way from 1971

Feeling Peaky

 Thursday August 17th

We opted for an indoor session at Harrogate on Tuesday, it turned out the weather down there was good enough to have carried on for an outside day at Almscliff.  That missed opportunity stoked the appetite for some grit action, the weather looked favourable for Derbyshire so we swerved left down the A1 and bombed down to Mega-grit central.  It has to be;

Stanage Edge (North)

In the interests of less travelled, less polished routes parked up at the northern and headed up to the area left of High Neb.  Apart from one group at High Neb there were no other parties up there, Cosmic Buttress and Crow Chin were deserted all day, we had all those routes to ourselves.  And the midges.  Although they went away in the bright afternoon sun and the freshening easterly.

CB homing in on the target sector

There it is

Cosmic Crack Buttress

AT hoping for weaker gravity up there.

New 30m Mammut rope makes debut.

Beanpod (S4a)

AT led to the high break, but missed a crucial foothold to exit the pod.   CB took over and showed the way.

Next up:- 

AT gets an X-Ray at HS 4b.   One piece of aid helps get off the ground (legs too long!!)

Moved along to Crow Chin

CB on October Slab 

(HS 4b)

A classic bit of Binks bridgering overcomes the awkward overlap.

Excellent climbing all the way

AT follows no aid no drama

AT took a turn up Kelly's Crack (HVD) up the left facing corner.

CB finishes off a great afternoon with a steady lead on Feathered Friends at VS 4c.  Protection there when needed.

This route felt the most amenable of the whole day, apart from one move.  Who the dickens is grading this crag?

Walk out 25 minutes

Hat complete with easterly wind effects 

Cosmic Crack area

L - Beanpod (AT up to ?, CB remainder)

"Whilst gear is great the moves out of the pod felt about 4c being strict with line."  UKC commentator

R -      X - Ray

L-R

Feathered Friends

Kellys Crack

October Slab

Total of five routes done, about 50m.  But a lot of effort!

Visited this area in 2007, climbed with BP

Last visit to Stanage October 2017 (BP)

View towards Goliath's Groove sector

Thirty Eight

 Wednesday 16th August

38 years ago it was our big day, not that anybody is counting..

Marked the event with a trip to the coast

Drive over the moors to Sandsend

Gifted with glorious sunshine

Still smiling!

Fabulous walk to Whitby

Slap up lunch at the Magpie.

Stuffed!!

The walk back burned some of the calories off

10% maybe

Scot Crags Spare

 7th August

CB on a mini-break with Denmark based buddy over for a visit.  After 2 wall sessions feeling the need to get out.  A couple of feelers put out, all enquiries made, and headed off to the NY Moors to drop in on my mentor NP in action with a group at;

Scot Crags Scugdale

Got roped in (??) to help look after two pairs gaining points towards the RCI qualification.  Turned out to be a very enjoyable day providing some spare head, hands and feet in support of the main man.

View from walk in

Seconding Corner Left Direct

Not easy having a good time

Only ever one first day outside

Only ever one first trad lead

Talking of which, this from 25 years ago minus a month

Jo popped by to say Hi!

This photo almost as old.

Attermire Mixture

 20 July

Fifteen years have gone by since the last visit to the dramatic West Yorkshire landscape dominated by the multiple buttresses and outcrops going collectively by the name of;

Attermire Scar

Headed for the far flung South West Buttress overlooking Settle in the valley with views stretching All the Way to Memphis Morecambe Bay  

 A good walk up bottom right to upper left

Today's venue on the far left skyline.

CB offering advice to a sport climbing party

First 3 climbs variations of  Flicker at VS 4c, quite adventurous, Binks earns his wings!

CB on Moonlight

Only gets VS 4c

Felt like a stiff  HVS

Gear improves after a very bold start to about six metres above a very bad landing.

L-R
Flicker 3 
Flicker 2
Flicker 1
Fergus  (abandoned)
Moonlight

Released

50 years ago today

All the Way from Morccambe 

Memphis