Castle Rock Relay

 Sunday May 19th

Some flux in the plan for the weekend, BP back and keen for a session, so Saturday set aside for a NYM trip.  Gammy knee (BP) ruled this out - baton duly picked up by CB and the race switched to Sunday out west, turned out to be a bit of a bonus given that all the decent weather now the other side of the Pennines.  Good that CB's turn to drive as AT's second day in a row in the Lakes, Saturday walking with MT so made most of the sunshine weekend on offer out there.

So as is often the case the award for the premier crag of choice for the first Lakes trip of the season goes to;

Castle Rock of Triermain  

On a mission to get some mileage done

Emerging from the eastern clag into the glorious Eden Valley

The way across the aqueduct has been renovated to good effect, the step over the rickety fence was getting dangerous.

A couple of parties passed us on the walk in at 10.10, looked like the crag would be over run.

Two teams in action even on arrival at 10.15, taking advantage of some shade.  On Direct Route (left) and Kleine Rinne

Another couple headed round the dark side, intrepid!

CB's turn to lead today, Via Media was nearest so he was off at the races

High on the run out finish on the right, about to enter the light.

Meanwhile an unknown climber executes a tidy start on Direct Route.  AT takes note for later.

By now there must be 5 teams on the South Crag.  CB suggests Gangway Climb seeing as it was free.  AT jumps at the chance to get one in before lunch and the afternoon starts to cook up.

Already very warm up on top though

Todays winners of best dressed climbing team

Direct Route up next

Great climbing up the steep wall and crack

CB's lead, AT no drama second.

Belays aren't exactly easy to find especially when some are already occupied.  AT set this one up on the first flat grass ledge above Gangway Climb.  A small spike next to a brown patch combined with an orange metolius in a little crack about a metre up and right.

Detail for future reference.  There was nothing else there.

In a switch from the usual order of things, the afternoon session moved up to the RH side.  For a change AT led Companion Way at Mild Severe (green line).  CB invented a mirror image with a new combo.  Wall Climb start and a finish of Slab climb up the crozzly wall left of the usual corner.

Both very interesting with adequate protection.

CB makes the finishing moves up the wall right of the usual corner.

Seem to recall it being attempted by someone we know?

Now really baking so called it a draw at 15.15

All other teams long since de-camped!  Just us left.  

Todays routes

L-R

Via Media, Direct Route, Gangway Climb, (yellow)

Companion Way (blue)

CB Wall Slab combo.

Climber on North Crag just visible centre left.

16.15

All is well.

Mission accomplished

Peel Appeal

 Sunday 12th May

The good weather spell holds up long enough for another trip to the County for a regular circuit of the most appealing routes on;

Peel Crag

One of the few venues where the walk in is actually a walk down, so off to a fast start, climbing by 10.40.  

CB ambles in.

AT starts the day off up Ulysses, an amenable VDiff with an optional RH finish which is rather bold for that grade.

The LH groove is reported as being loose and some rock has fallen out recently.

A rare picture of a tidy rope, somehow managed to get it into a right mess not once but twice, took almost as long to sort it out as getting up the route.

Common factor both times down to AT.  Or was it CB?

CB about to effect the awkward transition from the technical start of Overhanging Crack, which is coming up next.

AT followed ok until the jams went in the wrong way round in the big crack.  Got it 2nd go.

AT invokes a Sunset clause.

Unknown climber on same route

Twin Cracks is also on view up the left of this picture.

A very tough start VS5a in the County

HVS everywhere else

©Simnel UKC

CB past the major difficulties on Twin Cracks.

AT followed up the right then a pendulum in on CB's tight rope gained the niche below the brown oblong centre pic.

From July 2003.   It's in the logbook with a tick and I remember it being ok.  I guess that must mean the years have not been kind....

Finished the day with a new route, Chockstone Chimney, really enjoyable route with an exposed finish great gear all the way.

Routes L-R
Overhanging Crack
Ulysses
Chockstone Chimney
Sunset
Twin Cracks

Wheatsheaf in Corbridge closed.  Other places not as good.

Some greats in this mix

Kylorama

  Tuesday 30 April

It felt like time for an early visit to the Lakes.  The weather forecasts fickled things about from day to day, Tuesday looked hopeful on Sunday but by Monday it was iffy. Then the sunny prospects out west for Tuesday looked stymied by rain in the morning.  Sunny but windy in the east.  The deadlock was broken with one magic word that came WhatsApping in from CB.

Kyloe!

Despite the loss of large swathes of the surrounding trees, it remains a reliably sheltered venue from any wind in most directions.  Made good time travelling despite the ongoing upheaval around the western bypass.  Parking by 10.25 and climbing just after 11.00. A hazy sun gathered strength as the day went on and by mid afternoon it was proper glorious.

The ultimate in user friendliness, short walk in, level ground, table top boulders, all climbs only minutes away, tree belays, no crowds.  Worth the 1 hour 50 minute drive.

Hang on a Mo!

CB gets the day off to a great start on this amenable route with a logical direct finish up the exciting steep layback.  

AT leads the same exit out of Christmas Tree Arete.  Jugs arrive a couple of more moves from here.

It's a montage but it captures the moment of commitment.

CB unable to free a friend left by a previous party.

CB on Fakir's Crack

Abseiling off the route in a vain attempt to retrieve another piece of gear left on Wilfred Prickles.

No swag today then.

Meanwhile another team tackles the classic Gagarin's Groove, leader heading off rightwards from the start of Christmas Tree Arete, the main difficulties in prospect from here.

Time for one more before lunch.

CB ready to receive AT to lead Fakir's Slab. Goes up the leaning pillar on the left.  

HVD is wrong.  Gear (orange dots) is ok, two friends and an offset.  But the cracks above are blind so the run out is nervy.  Obscure slopers for feet and a one finger pocket.   UKC logbook reports many opting to escape up the recess to the right.

After a bit of a gibber, AT manned up and claimed HS 4b!

(as per UKC consensus!)

After lunch, CB accepts the challenge of the left hand line of the slab (above right).  Today it's pretty green and rejects all best efforts, fortunately the landing is soft and CB is used to falling off ladders.

The right hand approach is in better shape and has more holds.  The finish up the wall is as pokey as ever!

CB dispatches with alacrity.

It's been a while (2016) since AT actually led Deception Crack, so had a go at sneaking up it today.

Came back down after a struggle half way.  CB suggested a 5 min. break, fetched coffee and gave thumbs up to AT's ideas about the crux moves  Good therapy Mr B.

Went up again, stuck with the plan - it worked!  Won't get fooled again!

Picture from 2008 - just completed crux moves.

Climber shows the way up Flake Crack, very nicely done considering only her 3rd day on rock.

These young people!

AT followed CB up same then finished the day, and himself, off with a good battle up the burly Conifer Direct. 

On way to the Belford Boozer for gentlemanly libations.

Good crack there with a bunch of geezers doing the coastal path.

The Revolution will be no replay brother

      The Revolution will be LIVE!

Return to The Great Outdoors

 April 21st

It's six months since the last day out.  Despite some fickle forecasting from the Metoffice, it looked like there may be a decent day east of the Pennines.    So AT, BP, CB (a.k.a The Three Body Problem)  picked up where they had left off  at the regular venue on Sunday October 15th last year.

Scot Crags Scugdale

Our Trio joins four groups already out at the crag, plenty of chat in between routes.

AT models new Mountain Equipment Ibex Pant design

Snazzy

BP clips another wire into Curtain Crack

Holly Tree Wall is well protected by one bombroof Wallnut at hip level in this picture.

CB on the rather friable finish on Oak Tree Wall.

BP steals a march on Saints Wall

Awkward start leads to very steady climbing.

Dainty feet finish off the third route in this area.

Moving along to Scot Buttress, AT on the favourite Corner Direct -Left.

Slightly precarious before jugs arrive to finish.

CB shapes up nicely on second.

CB rattled up Woodpecker Wall and BP picks out the pockets.

Romulus

BP finds out what the Romans ever did for us.

CB shows where it goes from there and moves up to finish in a fine position.

12 routes done, more than the rest of the teams put together it seems!

Indoor Games

 Tuesday 5 March 5th

Weather still far to fickle for any outside plans so keeping going with the training, another good session, seem to hitting a bit of plateau.

This year's progress starting in November