BP back from the southern brink, seems a lot has happened since the Adam and Eve it efforts. Lack of a solid Lakes forecast finally forced a foray to Derbyshire - first time this year and it's almost August - lots to catch up on so headed for the Queen of Gritstone .....
Stanage Edge
Verandha Pillar HS 4b
AT anxious about lack of gear
so
Mr P took over the lead
Have pro, will travel!
Sketchy finish above good gear
Three more safe and easy routes done - but all getting a bit wild, so had a confab and retreated back to car for the short drive to the sheltered haven of......
Lawrencefield
Only one other pair there! What a great call! Sun fully out. No wind to speak of. Possibilties restored!
Quick lunch then metal tested on Excalibur (VS4c) - the magnificent soaring corner above the pool
Hard moves gain the lower slab
Then up into the corner proper
Gear in...
then
Lay back and think of England
(50 years to the day since World Cup won)
Another view of this fantastic must do line
Climber committing to the fingery lay back moves
© Paul Phillips
AT eats up Gingerbread
VS 4b
One crack
4 wires
then
GO
BP moves out of the comfort zone and up to the very steep finish of
Tyrone
VS 4c
He's got the Power!
Hanging off the crack to place the reassuring finishing friends
Great exposure composure Mr P
Limpopo VS 4b
Follows the obvious corner left of the slabs
Gingerbread taked a line left of the arete on the right of Limpopo
Sun finally illuminates this rather forboding line
Swallows gear
The finish is steep
And pretty hard at the grade
A worthwhile finale to a really action packed day
The Speed of Life
Routes done
Stanage (note inverse grade progression)
Verandah Pillar HS4b BP AT 8m
Intermediate Buttress HVD 4a AT BP 8m
Verandah Cracks Left 8m VD BP AT
Verandah Cracks Right D 8m
Lawrencefield
Excalibur VS 4c BP AT 20m
Gingerbread VS 4b AT BP 10m
Tyrone VS 4c BP AT 18m
Limpopo VS 4b AT BP 10m
Last 3 routes with second pitch about 6m each
100m target reached!
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