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Sunday, 7 August 2016

Grit Expectations

Last week's sampler provided Team Peak with plenty of food for thought. In the meantime two overlapping hit lists were compiled, more than a dozen possible routes packed with action and challenge.

So expectations off the scale and aspirations all pumped up by the prospect of some fine climbing on some testing terrain at....

Stanage Edge
An early meet at Wetherby and at the crag in good time and high spirits
First on the list, a really good intro on Balcony Cracks at S4a.


Big, steep and steady

BP makes it all look deceptively easy






Thrombosis VS 5a (and some)


AT makes a vain attempt before losing heart.

Reverses back down and hands over to BP


But it's off vertical and out of balance.  The adjacent route (Rigor Mortis 4c) was found to be stiff and lacking gear.

Another retreat follows.
Oh dear.

The hit list hits back!  The ignomy!

That hissing noise is the sound of  Team Peak's collective ego deflating.



Time for a post mortem
A quick review of the list turns up something hopefully actually doable
 
So AT starts a comeback of sorts with some merry moves up Robin Hoods Crack (HVD 4a)

Hold onto those wires!



A walk in the woods by comparison

BP mashes up on Tea Leaf Crack, another confidence builder



Back to the list on
Four VS 4c

A nice little number

Just enough gear



Shuffle right from here to a great thread that helps take the sting out of an exposed finish up the little wall


BP gobbles up Muesli (HS 4c)

The starting moves give plenty of food for thought, reachy and tenuous

AT messed about with the start of Cornflake (VS5a) which follows the wall on the right, before abandoning the attempt(?) and whistling up the next route - Boot Crack at VDiff

Just time to crowbar one more route in, back on the list with the superb Right Twin Crack VS 4c
A very fine lead just about completes the 
rehabilitation of  Team Peak



Supplementals

Thrombosis
Follows the leaning crack centre pic

Rigor Mortis
The wide crack on the right


Robin Hoods Crack (L)

Tea Leaf (R)



Four


Muesli (L)

Boot Crack (R)

Cornflake (not done) goes up the face in between

Maybe a high runner in Boot Crack would help?

See also
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/zoomtopo/stanage/

Route around the Friday Sheffield rush hour
Open fast driving most of the way


 




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