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Friday, 11 May 2018

Borrowdale Wandering

Thursday 10 May

After a wet spell high pressure back for a day.  Heading West for first time this year - passed through some showers after Penrith so motored down St Johns in the Vale in case south looked better - but turned back to Keswick to stick with Plan A, Woden and Quayfoot Combo.
Quayfoot looked way out of condition so plan B (FW) in play.

Drove back round up over Ashness Bridge to
Goats Crag
A new venue for AT, FW been a few times.  Bitter wind up there at 380m but got stuck straight in to the clean dry rock.
L - Everbody's Dream (S 4a)
R- Son of OZ (HS 4c)
Balancing Act - far left skyline

Balancing Act 
(E1 5b)

FW about to move up to the hard sequence

Another climber
Another day
Another angle

© G Lewis - Evans UKC

 Crux moves well above good gear

Fortunately a couple of small friends go in a bit higher up

Belay well back

V cold wind, abandoned the crag and back to car for a warm up and lunch

Returned to the Bowderstone Car park for two routes on 
Woden's Face

Another extreme tick for FW - then finished the day off on the always amenable Wimpey Way

Back at the car park by 5.45

Quayfoot Buttress now festooned with climbers

Maybe Plan A could have been a goer?

But would have missed out new routes on Goats Crag

Adventurous day out!
First day out in new rock shoes....

Tuesday, 8 May 2018

Tour 2018 - Return to the Back of Beyond

May 4th - 6th

Lions Tour 2018

The call of the wild proved too strong to resist, this year's venue a secluded corner of the Lake District National Park, far from the madding crowd.

The weather forecast was promising, no rain in the forecast but cloudy.  How wrong was that??!! - from Saturday morning wall to wall sunshine, blue skies putting the Lake District at its fabulous best.

Itineries (on the whole) as per mission, Rolling on the Ratty, Cruising on the Water, Smoking on the BBQ and not forgetting an obligatory helping of nonsense.


Dev wastes no time getting acquainted with the locals

The Brum Crew arrive after a tortuous hack up the M6


Cue Chilli Feast!

WHOOO HOOOO. Away on the Ratty!



No drinking in the hot tub.....

Should have gone here for the night out?

Sunday plans were best laid

Maybe Dev knew something?


Any chance of a boat? 

 No Boat?

No problem!

 Plan B comes good - ready to board!

Lunch spot


BBQ choice

or Burgers

and Burgers

Plus hand crafted coleslaw

Time to sally forth

Chicks are coming!

A belter!
More pics here

Wednesday, 2 May 2018


Tuesday 1st May

A weather window opens up - sandwiched between low pressures east and west.  Just under a year since we last visited so time for another run up to

A bright and sunny drive up in a warm car flattered to deceive - pretty breezy at the crag but we made base in a sheltered spot and set about our day at the office.

NB makes an overture on The Flutings, a cracking 2 star intro to the crag

Magic climbing with good gear

Amazing rock higher up

PMcG conducts a grand finale

AT revelling in the rippling rock on Slab Crack

Diff outcrop climbing at its finest

The crack gobbles gear at an alarming rate

PMcG fails to disguise the fun to be had at this extreme grade
NB sets sights on an expedition under the big roof
Wall and Fluted Slab S4a

Steep start then wanders out left to an optional rusty peg belay
NB belays with more modern gear
Climbing calls made by phone!

All the effort comes in the first 12 feet

AT on Cheat at VD

The sun went in
The wind revved up even more

All enough to render this route a bit spicy for the grade

By now all a bit wind blasted.  Called it a draw given the worsening conditions.

More pics here

Wednesday, 18 April 2018

Raiders of the lost Routes

Tuesday April 17th

Despite suspect weather couldn't face another indoor day so headed north hoping for a dry day, once again optimism triumphed and we stole the day at

Kyloe (Out)

Xmas Tree Arete provides a gift wrapped warm up

John's Wall works its way left to right up the wall.

Climber is on Chris's Arete at HS4b

© andymoin

 How come we'd ignored it all these years?
Mo (finish up Christmas Tree Arete Direct)

Time for another new one over on F Buttress

Cloister Wall
HS 4b 22m

And the rest

AT ready to move up onto the big ledge

The wall above proved bulging and forced some moves left to regroup in the comfortable cave

Followed by an outbreak of megga mincing about

Off balance shuffle right along the ledge lead to steep moves up the breaks.

Then chance to calm down at the second small ledge before finishing up a tricky groove.

Good gear there but hard to clip

This angle gives a clue to the climb

The ledge provides no respite, all a bit precarious


Kettle still boiling a bit.
 5 point belay took some tidying up.  Dropped the big hex down the crack - had to fish it out with a broddler on a sling.

Apart from that all in fine style......

The operation to remove the cam was a success.

Unfortunately it died in the process.

It may yet undergo a resurrection

[update; now restored]

Some Sticky Fingers courtesy Simon Mayo

Tuesday, 10 April 2018

First cut

Monday April 9th

At last some decent weather.... after a misty start the sun broke through by about 1pm, later on a bit of a breeze dried things up enough to get the mower out.  Good jobs done in the outside spaces, cleaning, fettling proofing and painting.

Just as well, it started raining at 6pm and kept going for 24 hours everything is sopping now

Thursday, 29 March 2018

Three Times Lucky

November 2017 - Scot Crags
March 25  2018 - Scot Crags
March 29th
Why interrupt the flow?  Let's get up to:

Scot Crags

Next few days looking very mixed so opted out of the indoor facsimile and headed back out to the real world, despite a rather friable forecast.

Not many pictures, too busy!
Anyhow seen em all before!

BP cruising Blaeberry Buttress Direct

The just past vertical start is where all the action is.

Nook and Cranny

Corner Direct Right

Pretty thuggy to get started
Hard with long legs

Given the early season conditions a 3 star effort all round