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Wednesday, 20 June 2018

Wibble 2.5 - Slipstoned

June 19 2018
Nine years ago today Operation Wibble 1.0 was in full swing high on Grey Crag
Today's meet lacked the full Wibble parameters of multi-day multi-crag expeditionary force epic but nonetheless worthy of a Wibble 2.5 designation.  Venue being the once popular yet now mainly for the afficionados - the anything but slippy

Slipstones
NB debut.  PM says it looks familiar.  Bob and Ron from York and Filey also put in an appearance and headed off to do their bouldering.  Meanwhile at the left hand end the team wasted no time in getting the rope out.

Base camp swiftly established, with supplies for a full half day





NB ready to get stuck into an opener after several weeks away lounging around in the GLORIOUS ALPS


For some unknown reason AT succumbed to inserting himself into this compelling and attractive line


Best not to ask why




NB gets stuck in with the required gusto




More sensible little route



NB led this rather pokey Vdiff


Note debut of boulderering mat

Provided sterling service all day


PM and BP caught out indulging themselves in some sort of pagan ritualistic Dance of the Stones



PM rocks up



BP illustrates the joy of jamming

NB deploys psychic levitation superpowers





Big bong in

Friend in

Everybody breathes again!



AT gives it a good humping




NB makes great progress

That bouldererering mat works wonders!



AT's turn to feel the amazing effects of combined psychic levitation wizardry





Not to mention the ever magical bouldererering mat





Two friends and a wire take care of the final couple of metres


That boulderererering mat is not helping over there


And where's the levitators when you need 'em?



BP makes some great Slipstones shapes on this sustained severe.

Undergraded


Like they all are






Seconds invent improbable shapes to facilitate stylish progress upwards





This angle gives a feel for how tough this route is for the grade


As does NB's determined body language


It just keeps on coming




Time for a series of short routes in the next bay along before an orderly retreat to the Black Swan




Apparently there's a good hold higher up just between AT's legs

Team Wibble
Cracking Good Effort!

Full set of photos courtesy Mr Pixels himself
here 

Monday, 18 June 2018

Hove Nocturnal

June 12-17

Hove
Drove down to meet up after the Wales epic, in advance of the Blenheim Palace show
Had a visitor



Colourful

Sunset at Blenheim Palace
Nick Lowe
Waterboys
Elvis Costello



Plus special last minute guests

What a scene!
"It's shocking what squalor some people live in" 

Some EC action 
And the one and only great 


Thursday, 14 June 2018

The Cymru Capers

June 9th-11th
The miraculous weather continues to hold good and the planned weekend was given the GO-CODE.  A last minute booking for two nights B&B at the Bryn Glo in Capel Curig and the mission was on for some outlaw adventures in
North Wales




BP arrives at the BRYN GLO residence








Nice and private upstairs rooms...
Bryn Glo Base.  Checked in at 14.15 and quick drive to Betws-y-Coed and a short walk up the through the woods to launch a long weekend of climbing capers at

Colgwyn Cirau



BP on Long Climb Direct.

A bit bold for opening severe











Great vistas
Cravate de rigeur in the heat


AT nerves jangling at the base of the bulging groove on P1 of Jingling Wall
(HS 4b)


Steep moves to a rest.

Spend a while fiddling in gear and wondering which way to go.







Straight up on tenuous moves to a balancy rock over




BP followed up the leftside  and found good holds to pull through leaning corner

Thats the way matey!









P2 equally sustained
BP (upper left) silhouettes his way up the finishing wall.
At lower left




Sundowners at the Local Tyn-y-Coed Inn


Honest pub grub

Hatched plan for day 2
Moel y Siabod (872m)
Sunday arrived warm.  Sport plan fine tuned for ease of access maximum climbing minimum slogging and optimum challenge.  Headed for the far reaches of Tremadog and the welcoming rock of the wonderfully named
Pant Ifan

L-R
KTM HS4a
Mistook VS4c
Gwynedd VS4b
MTN S4a


AT mincing about below the hard moves on Gwynedd




Hand jams and foot smearing above good gear leads to a big PHEW and more gear.

Kettle boiling.



 The crozzly wall on Mistook offers small sharp pocket holds






Last gear in before heading left to make improbable shapes up the impending groove


Brilliant



All sorted


Stake belays make life easy on all the routes



AT despatches yet another groove on Bulging Wall

HS4a


Delightful climbing up the rough rock of the finishing wall.


Offsets rule today



BP on MTN (S)


BP gets ready to finish things off - a cracking day

Easy access
User friendly
Some shade
Enough challenge
No crowds
All requirements fully met!

Dark clouds are out of shot.  Made it to the pub just as the deluge hit!

Monday
Slept in.  Made it down for 8.45 and a belting black pudding and bacon breakfast by our host Eirian.  (No beans)


BP hatches an eggcellent plan for another quality day.  A short drive and ten minute walk then plenty of climbing to do before an afternoon getaway at

Tryfan Fach
 Those big Tryfan routes look a long way away, glad we don't have to get up there!


Must be sixty degrees of freedom on the whopper slab




Route 1
Route 2

Route 1 (L) proved a bit tense in approach shoes, got an embarrassing attack of the dropsies whilst fiddling on belay.

Oops.




BP working a way up Mossy Slab

Mosslessly misnomered

Long pitch, had to move together for 4m or so.




AT follows, getting familiar with the Scarpa shoe friction on the superb rock.

Surprising how well the crag has weathered the decades of traffic.

No grooves today!


Route 2 finishes off all the fun.

A megga pitch with a run out middle section

Spicy, but great





Climber below had just been told she'd no more rope....

CymRu Rules!

SO MUCH MORE TO DO

More pics here
 


Drive times
Out
11.00 am - 14.10pm
Return
14.30 - 17.40

Accommodation
Bryn Glo