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Monday, 13 November 2017

Cold-sterdale

Sunday November 12th

After a quick confab on Saturday, a meet was set for the Rusty Biker in Swainby Sunday morning.  Shift in weather forecast prompted a move well inland to stay with the blue skies.  An ALT-PLAN was hatched in the Black Swan over a morning coffee warming.  A thrash through heather eventually located a sheltered crag lower down.  Lack of routes, gear and belays - had to bail back up and arrived well warmed up at the still very cold buttresseses of the more extensive and amenable(!)
Slipstones
Map shows location of  Birk Gill Crag 
(shown as a square under the "W")

Took a bit of finding, at least we know it's probably not worth a visit!




Meanwhile back at the main crag......

After a long reach to the good hold BP finds a rest for more gear on Jack the Lad





Aces High is steep

BP gets his cards all set for the rather precarious exit right





And made light work of the layback start on the imaginatively named Undercut Flake






Meanwhile a bouldering chap finds a way to keep cool on a solo highball of Seven Up

Only
E2 5c.......





Barnley Crack catches the late sun and sheltered from the bitter wind


Awkward all the way!



AT basks in the late rays

Next Stop

PUB!!

Plenty of deprivation to trade in





Sun about to set





Black Swan delivers the goods

Again









Sunset en route



Thursday, 9 November 2017

Scot Three

Wednesday November 8th

This time there was every prospect of all-day rays.  And next to no wind!!

A few texts and the mission was made, the logistics in place, and a rendezvous set for three geezers at  this seasons default venue....
Scot Crags, Scugdale
Cracking coffee and scone at the Rusty Biker bought a bit of time for the sun to come up and flow some joules into the rock.



NB warming up on Alpha.  Or was it Beta?  Maybe Gamma?

I dunno it's all Greek to me




BP arrives and rattles off a few solos.


Pulling himself together on Curtain Wall




BP feeling festive on Holly Tree Wall





NB follows very tidy










Wot?  No halo?







NB makes his moves!


All Good!




NB starts the rather technical sequence on Pup's climb







Taking the Pup for a bit of a run out





BP gets re-aquainted with a classic




As is often the case on many routes here  the finish is best not rushed


A nice thread takes care of the higher moves on Whippet Wall




The wussy sling takes some of the sting out of a run out finish

















Routes 1-8 best guess
Many more pics here

Monday, 6 November 2017

Welcome to the Walking Week

Some top days out this week

Sunday October 29th




Casterton









View to a KL



Thursday 2 November
Derwentwater 





Causey Pike
Saturday 4th November
Barforth
 New view of Gainford from south of the River



What's left of St Lawrences

The Dovecot


Tuesday, 31 October 2017

Slipstones Late Season

Monday October 30th

Keeping last week's Wednesday-Friday momentum going with a short day at the long lost local gritstone crag, Colsterdale's finest...
Slipstones
This venue has been creeping up the list of short day options for a while, it's finally made it to the number one slot. It used to deserve at least an annual visit on the roster up until about 2005.  No place for the weak of spirit.

A rather feeble and intermittent sun fails to get the temperature anywhere near gas mark 1 despite a 12.30 start.

A few gropes up a short steep VDiff were promptly rebuffed through feelingless fingers and a crumpled confidence level.  The Diff next door succumbed to some desperate moves.  Suddenly remembered why it had been so long.......



How did he get up there?!?

BP warms himself up on a steep and intimidating HS 4b.

An inspiring effort. 


Shame none of the drive, willpower and technique was absorbed by the second.  Managed to retrieve the gear though.

Another adjacent route proved harrowing, but possible


A photomontage
(all pixels contemporaneous, give or take)

BP gets himself super imposed.



That's the way to do it.

The crag could be great in good weather


Jack the Lad follows the LH arete

A fine VS goes up behind the climber, one to come back for.




Finishing off a testing afternoon on the pleasant Tommy's Dilemma.

The Black Swan at Fearby is a great spot for recovery, the log burner was duly worshipped


CB shows the way in the early 90's

The low grades and meterage give no clue to the damage done to mind body and soul.....






Saturday, 28 October 2017

Autumn Gold Rush


Friday 27th October

A one day high pressure wonder.  Fortunately able to crowbar another day out at short notice, taking advantage of the cerulean skies, dazzling rays, gentle breeze and imperious rock at;

Stanage Edge
Along with a car park full of other parties with the same idea.  Nonetheless there's plenty of great climbing enough to go round.

L-R
Oblique Crack
Albert's Wall
Leaning Buttress Crack
Garden Wall
Chockstone Direct
Beech Tree Wall
Flying Buttress

 Ready to Rack




AT having a sudden struggle on Leaning Buttress



Some sort of rhythm finally sets in just before the top


BP on Garden Wall

Refusing to be distracted by the stream of conciousness running self commentary brain dump from the climber on an adjacent route, could the moves be done?  Or not? Was it right to be worried?  Or not?  Is that cam ok?  Or not?  Etc. Etc.

And etc.


Said climber still on the route one hour later........




Varied Climbing

Strenous start

Tricky transition up and left

A fine open finishing wall

Good value


AT had a look at Via Media at VS4c

But the soaring line of this easier route seemed more compelling.




The pre-placed high side runners brought this VS4c down to size........


AT treats himself this top 50 ├╝ber classic


Delightful
















Just time for two in a row by BP



Going well at the eponymous chockstone



Difficulties overcome in tidy style




Quit the crag just as the Sheffield nine to fivers arrived on a flyer to catch a short session before the clocks go back



Again!