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Wednesday, 19 July 2017

Eastby All Stars

Tuesday 18th July

Last day of the hot spell, domestic stuff getting in the way of a full day out so crow-barred in a half day at
Eastby Crag
Conditions considerably more benign than the abortive visit earlier in the year.  All routes well starred - quality making up for quantity given the limited time.

BP gets started on the tricky transition round the roof on the classic Pillar Rib

An abundance of inviting cracks.

But getting a good placement proving surprisingly tricky.

Still plenty to do from here

The bold slab at VS P3 no gear best left alone in favour of the well protected left hand crack

The off width finish?  No thanks.

Stepped across up the left hand ramp much more amenable

Some tempting (sh)apes in prospect

Interesting, varied climbing

The slabby middle section leads to a fine

Still time left to pop up another 3 star classic - a contender for the best Yorkshire VDiff

Would be rude not to...

VS finish up the right ignored with a view getting to the pub in good time for the onward trip north

Killinghall to Winston driving sounds

Top of the Lake

Sunday July 16th
Finally got the window for the Lakes trip after being thwarted by this and that for a few days.

Ullswater Steamer 12.30 Glenriddding to Howtown.

Fanatstic water

Ice cream coming

3hours 40m

Friday, 14 July 2017

Christmas Cracker!

Wednesday 12th July
Lakes calling!
After a glut of grit venues it feels like a trip out west is overdue.  BP leads a quest for terra incognita and the team signs up for a day out in the backwoods of Borrowdale.  The venue is found in a sylvian setting around Kings How on the fells east of Grange. The walk in passes a gloomy looking Black Crag and pushes on up to the the sun soaked ribs and walls of;
Christmas Crag

 Messrs P and B head off the beaten track

The crag comes into view in about 45 mins
10 mins to go

CB gets straight on the case

Christmas Rib HVS 5b
The moves to here are proper hard
BP leans in and plays close attention
At the edge of gullibility

A bit bold up to here

Finally two good units keep things cooking

BP roasts a way up the hard moves

A tricky transition left on a good side pull coming up.

Good climbing

It can be done!

BP straight into the next course, a well protected 4c to get tucked into.

The crag looks out across a mouth watering vista


The interest is sustained most of the way to the belay

AT brings the grades back down another level

Just enough gear to keep happy

Variation finish stepping out right at 2/3 height adds a bit of spice

CB back in front

Fizzing away on Alka Salsa at HVS 5a

BP gets his dose of rock dancing

Much steeper than it looks from this angle

Another good route a few metres left

Sherry Trifle HVS 5a

Can't be passed up

Video below
(click bottom right for full screen)

 So time to move on to check out the lower tier.  In hindsight this was not a good idea.  Played lip service with just one route, CB again in the lead on another HVS 5a.  Two pieces of gear in 15m.

BP follows with an element of surprise...

Who in his right mind would lead up there?


 Walk out

Upper Black Crag now much more inviting

Party visible on Troutdale Pinnacle

More pics here

Happy Christmas
Sherry Trifle
Alka Salsa
Christmas Pudding
Christmas Rib
(Yule Be Surprised not in shot)

Stand Still

Monday, 10 July 2017

South Flying Birds

2-9 July
Week on the coast - finishing off with the Joshua Tree at Twickenham.  North south weather split prevails with weather up North 10 degrees cooler and wet.  Meanwhile in Hove it's time to bake

Walking the cliff to the White Cliffs Cafe at Saltdean
View from "The View" on the front early evening

Sunday - aperros with P&V then GS takeaway
Monday - To town and back via cafe on front.  Mushroom Risotto
Tuesday - Laguna am.  Visit P&V then camp at Marroccos meet M for calamari Peroni combo - Nigel Slater sea bream
Wednesday - meet Vikk to town then bus to Rottingdean walk to White Cliffs lunch and bus back.  Meet V&P at The View glorious weather Canhams sausage & mash.
Thursday - Tesco then slow day baking gas boiler serviced V&P round for supper flan
Friday - wander out for coffee at Marroccos, up to west pier shops, lunch at Urchin, evening at The View for Avril's do.
Saturday - U2 at TWICKENHAM Joshua Tree Live
Sunday -  Drive home 6 hours 45mins 

At Avril's do

Picture by Andrea

U2 at Twickenham - crowd gathering

 The boys play rock and roll
Epic version of "Exit"

Good summary of the show here
Streets have no name here
Exit here

Don't Look Back in Anger here

More pics and clips here 

Tuesday, 27 June 2017

Brimham full of action

Monday 26th June
Had aimed to be out on Sunday but way too windy, Monday a much better bet , make the most of it - the rest of the week looks pretty grim.  CB tied up at the dentist in Thirsk at noon so it seemed like a good place to rendezvous would be the brilliant playground of
Brimham Rocks

Cubic Block exerts its usual magnetism as the GO-TO sector at the start of the day's efforts

AT on Heather Wall

BP gets the sums right on Square Root

Cubic Corner - solved with friends from the right dimension

BP applied some precision and comes up with the answer

Re-locate to Cannon Rock.
CB materialises and gives the team a third dimension.

BP in fine form on Maloja

 BP in action

CB makes the traverse moves in a v fine position

Managed to walk past the jamming test piece of RH crack and lured the gang to Birch Tree Wall.

It's still a classic.

Camped for a while to fiddle with small gear at the back of the big break

A delicate traverse leads to the wall and a hunt for gear

A few more moves yield a solid placement

CB sorts out the jamming crux on Right Wall

Exit via flutes under the roof and out right

After a couple of desperate mantles the steep jamming crack comes as something of a relief

A few minutes walk out to Allans Crack

It's BP's lead - phew!!

Hard moves lead up....... really hard moves from here out left to an undercut hold

Strenous climbing and getting gear sorted

The angle eases briefly to a
rest - of sorts

More steep moves lead to a pleasant slab and the top in fifteen feet or so


Brilliant effort - top of the grade and more

Time for another

Awkward moves to here

AT fixes focus on the foothold

No muffed moves till the belay please

Fagged out!


That CB gives us the grade creeps

More pics here