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Saturday 30 June 2018

More Midsummer Moors

29 June 2018

Seemed like there was unfinished business from Tuesday's Moors Multi-Crag.  Had to go back for more of the atmoshpheric climbing at;

Ravens Scar

Todays crag looms darkly above Great Broughton.




Got straight onto Airlift (S 4a)

Catching the morning sun so couldn't leave it alone.


AT gets off at the top floor



 BP bridges up the bone dry Waterslide












 Setting up an ab-station to do some route cleaning







Via Anna gets the brush off




Ready for later



Lazy Bones was filthy

So swapped across on to En Passant


AT wanders blithely up to the groove above a good ledge

About to get a bit of a shock!



The moves up from the next ledge are raight stiff


Tony Marr shows the way

© Tony Marr/Mike Tooke
2015



BP sets up for the thrilling moves up Forest Face



Great position


Via Anna VS 4b - and a bit more?
All buffed up for BP's lead

Gaps in the dots have to be filled in somehow


North Sea weather rolling in







BP deals with the first crux at mid height


The last moves prove problematic in the cold wind blowing mist straight from the North Sea

Business still to finish




Another view
That man Marr is at it again!

© Tony Marr/Mike Tooke
June 2017 

Some beta for next time



Ahab HS 4b

AT has tried and failed on this route numerous times


But not today

Moby Dick is alive and mutinous
* BP all but final 3m.  AT 2nd

The crag wears its grades with considerable modesty

Wednesday 27 June 2018

Day Trippers

Wednesday 28 June

Ride down to Ripon for a visit to Studley Royal Water Gardens and Fountains Abbey




Fabulous



4 miles walked

Tea and Scones

Ice Cream

Great day out for Darby and Joan

Tuesday 26 June 2018

Hasty Bank Bake Off

Tuesday June 26th

Heat wave cooking all the crags up.  Over ambitious plan to the Dovestones canned by an outbreak of common sense.  BP's brainwave adopted gratefully - giving the potential for plenty to do with some sheltered climbing provided by the great NYM multicrag combo of;

The Wainstones and Ravens Scar




NB makes most of the shade on Wall and Ledge

No need to warm up




AT persuaded (with some difficulty) into throwing in some jams and shapes




Another good line



BP opts for the NYM Classic



Small climb with a big feel

Can't say no to one of those

AT follows - clip here


NB can be viewed following there



Ling Buttress
Groove and Crack

NB sorts out the moves into the groove

Nearly gets an eye taken out by a recoiling #7 rock further up.

Dangerous sport this climbing business






AT gets an offset in on the Arete



Steep



Slopey finish tamed by hidden foothold







Final route on the 'Stones


No time to linger, all fully baked and ready for some shade over the other side



Forest Face


Great climbing





NB unties to conserve energies for pixels

BP makes some exploratory moves on Via Anna

Gets voted 4c in UKC

Gave it a good go.  But a crucial hold too dirty - backed off.

Will need to come back with time to do some cleaning




Worth coming back for though







Airlift via the direct start


















BP steps up into the light




Great climb at the grade


More pics
here

Chilled out 
Spliffing drive home








Errr......

Hat makes comeback

Wednesday 20 June 2018

Wibble 2.5 - Slipstoned

June 19 2018
Nine years ago today Operation Wibble 1.0 was in full swing high on Grey Crag
Today's meet lacked the full Wibble parameters of multi-day multi-crag expeditionary force epic but nonetheless worthy of a Wibble 2.5 designation.  Venue being the once popular yet now mainly for the afficionados - the anything but slippy

Slipstones
NB debut.  PM says it looks familiar.  Bob and Ron from York and Filey also put in an appearance and headed off to do their bouldering.  Meanwhile at the left hand end the team wasted no time in getting the rope out.

Base camp swiftly established, with supplies for a full half day





NB ready to get stuck into an opener after several weeks away lounging around in the GLORIOUS ALPS


For some unknown reason AT succumbed to inserting himself into this compelling and attractive line


Best not to ask why




NB gets stuck in with the required gusto




More sensible little route



NB led this rather pokey Vdiff


Note debut of boulderering mat

Provided sterling service all day


PM and BP caught out indulging themselves in some sort of pagan ritualistic Dance of the Stones



PM rocks up



BP illustrates the joy of jamming

NB deploys psychic levitation superpowers





Big bong in

Friend in

Everybody breathes again!



AT gives it a good humping




NB makes great progress

That bouldererering mat works wonders!



AT's turn to feel the amazing effects of combined psychic levitation wizardry





Not to mention the ever magical bouldererering mat





Two friends and a wire take care of the final couple of metres


That boulderererering mat is not helping over there


And where's the levitators when you need 'em?



BP makes some great Slipstones shapes on this sustained severe.

Undergraded


Like they all are






Seconds invent improbable shapes to facilitate stylish progress upwards





This angle gives a feel for how tough this route is for the grade


As does NB's determined body language


It just keeps on coming




Time for a series of short routes in the next bay along before an orderly retreat to the Black Swan




Apparently there's a good hold higher up just between AT's legs

Team Wibble
Cracking Good Effort!

Full set of photos courtesy Mr Pixels himself
here