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Wednesday, 27 June 2012

Take it to the limit

June 25th
Eagle Crag
Return to Grisedale
Kestrel Wall Severe 45m
Hawkeye VS4b 27m

Lots of rain last few days but crag in good condition, clean, dry, rough

Leading out on Kestrel Wall

Some rather flappy moves to start

and to keep going......

NB reaches for something beaky up on the fine steep headwall on P3

Taking it easy

PM winging his way onwards and upwards

Eagle team all topped out


-  homing in on a place for some pro, spotting a slot
to land in a good cam in the event of an unscheduled flight

Moving up

5.9 km
1 hour 30 not quite direct walk in
210 m (net) of ascent, some ups and downs along the way
1 hour 5 walk out down rh bank direct to road.

Wednesday, 20 June 2012


Tuesday 19 June 2012
East Raven Crag
Speckled Band VD PM
Jingo VS 4b AT
Mamba S AT
Ornithology S AT

© johnhenderson UKC 17 June with thanks

Crag in shadow upper left

Glorious - perfect weather

PM regrouping ready for the second section of Speckled band


Steep climbing by Jingo!
Pro always at a premium, bring small friends

Memo to AT
Best to clip it when you get it.......  don't get Ravenated!

Top of crag
Langdale at its very finest

White Ghyll looms immensely above the NT car park
Routes shown (NB route shown as Jungle Wall is actually Jingo)

Walk in from the gate through west fence of NT car park, along level path, cross river, then over small beck, shortly after look to right across pasture to gate in wall and track leading up through fearns to screes below the crag - about 25 minutes altogether.

Saturday, 16 June 2012

One for the vaults

Newlands valley
15 June 2012
Waterfall Buttress, Direct Route 110m Severe

These crags have appealed for a while, having been up to Miners crag twice already and eyeballed them walking in and out.

Looking down to the walk in up Newlands valley from Dale Head, crag in view upper right

The route failed to live up to it's two star billing

Gear not exactly over abundant

Had to broddle mud out of a crack to get any decent pro in P2!

BP leads up P3

Descent down south gully best described as horrid

Walk out vista

Walk in 1 hour 11mins
280m ascent

Walk out 45m

Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Dow lightful

Tuesday June 12
Dow Crag A - buttress
Arete Chimney and Crack 97m Mild Severe

NB new boots debut

Bit of rain on P1 - fortunately dow-sisted after a few worrying spells.

Excellent climbing up the arete, some dowtful traditional tactics for the chimney pitch, mounting exposure plus a bit of rope trouble early in the final crack adding to the frazzle factor.

Big route

 High on the arete
© Mudball UKC

NB pays out rope across the traverse


It's a long way dow n

Red sacks just visible left of centre

Fine position high on the last pitch, followed by a scramble to the top.


Just time for a quick one to wash down the crisps

Walk in
12.28 - 13.38
1 hour 10mins
Start 234m
End 516m

Walk out 1 hour 5 mins
7.15pm - 8.20pm

Friday, 1 June 2012

Go direct

Tuesday 29th May
PMcG returns after a month lay off
Black Crag, Borrowdale
Troutdale Pinnacle Direct VS4c
 PMcG on belay

AT on belay top of P2


Feels great

Black Crag, Borrowdale
Route goes up rhs of brown rock lower right of crag.  Belayer just visible at top, below right of last tree on skyline

Unknown climber
Some other day

Hot town

Summer in the City!
May 23-28
Hove Heat Wave

Thursday 24 Royal Albert Hall
Elvis C
Epic show
Nick Lowe guesting
More action Here

Friday night fishalty

Indian Summer Saturday (more fish) then traipse to Marina for the Waterlitz show by Generik Vapeur

Sensational, couldn't contain myself

BBQ with HD and GT visiting Sunday

Thanks to V&P for fabulous long break