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Saturday, 29 July 2017

Kyloe Quickie

Friday 28 July
Took a chance on a long drive for a shortened climbing window.  Drove through some cloudbursts but rode our luck and crowbarred in 6 routes in dry conditions at

NB ready for the perennially popular Christmas Tree Arete

Good big gear presents itself all the way

NB ready to unwrap the final moves

AT on the jug-tastic upper reaches of Deception Wall.

Deception Crack lived up to it's name
Wing Co Thompson makes a clean ascent after enjoying(?) unexpected air-time.


Nice catch partner.....

AT ready to move across to finish up the steep right wall

Finished off with a quick whistle up Flake Crack - all done in 20 minutes


Wednesday, 26 July 2017

Burbage Belters

Tuesday 25th July
Peak conditions once again favourite so southbound to sample the new guidebook delights at the often passed by......
Burbage North
Walked along the edge for over a kilometre to reach the far end slabs which yielded a goodly selection of amenable routes to warm up on at up to Vdiff - gets the juices going and puts some metres on the clock.  Enjoyed the company of numerous climbers from the Castle Club Sheffield - on a mission to celebrate their 50th anniversary by doing 500 routes in a week.  Well on the way already!

The classic jamfest of Amazon Crack
HS 4b ***

AT slays a dragon from 2004

From the Vaults
A photo of the 2004 effort

Got this far before panic set in and bailed out

A Castle Club climber

The difficulties relent somewhat after half way

BP on Rose Flake

A bit powerful for 4b

Some greasy jams

Very steep at the finish

But positive holds at last

AT tackles Green Crack

Steep start
Steep finish

Good gear.

Farcical Arete
HS 4b *

Gear finally arrives and BP obliges

Fortunately the main difficulties are low down

Fine position for finishing above bomber pro

Much more to play with on Right Twin Crack
at HVD 4a*

AT carries on stitching it up

More of the same on the sibling route

A nice closing climb at VD * Bilberry Wall

BP opts for a more sporty finish up the end of the neighbouring line up the face to the left;

(this being Bilberry Cake, at a rather improbable
4c, easier than any of the 4b routes)

AT on Bilberry Cake

VS as in very steady

Home leg

Wednesday, 19 July 2017

Eastby All Stars

Tuesday 18th July

Last day of the hot spell, domestic stuff getting in the way of a full day out so crow-barred in a half day at
Eastby Crag
Conditions considerably more benign than the abortive visit earlier in the year.  All routes well starred - quality making up for quantity given the limited time.

BP gets started on the tricky transition round the roof on the classic Pillar Rib

An abundance of inviting cracks.

But getting a good placement proving surprisingly tricky.

Still plenty to do from here

The bold slab at VS P3 no gear best left alone in favour of the well protected left hand crack

The off width finish?  No thanks.

Stepped across up the left hand ramp much more amenable

Some tempting (sh)apes in prospect

Interesting, varied climbing

The slabby middle section leads to a fine

Still time left to pop up another 3 star classic - a contender for the best Yorkshire VDiff

Would be rude not to...

VS finish up the right ignored with a view getting to the pub in good time for the onward trip north

Killinghall to Winston driving sounds

Top of the Lake

Sunday July 16th
Finally got the window for the Lakes trip after being thwarted by this and that for a few days.

Ullswater Steamer 12.30 Glenriddding to Howtown.

Fanatstic water

Ice cream coming

3hours 40m

Friday, 14 July 2017

Christmas Cracker!

Wednesday 12th July
Lakes calling!
After a glut of grit venues it feels like a trip out west is overdue.  BP leads a quest for terra incognita and the team signs up for a day out in the backwoods of Borrowdale.  The venue is found in a sylvian setting around Kings How on the fells east of Grange. The walk in passes a gloomy looking Black Crag and pushes on up to the the sun soaked ribs and walls of;
Christmas Crag

 Messrs P and B head off the beaten track

The crag comes into view in about 45 mins
10 mins to go

CB gets straight on the case

Christmas Rib HVS 5b
The moves to here are proper hard
BP leans in and plays close attention
At the edge of gullibility

A bit bold up to here

Finally two good units keep things cooking

BP roasts a way up the hard moves

A tricky transition left on a good side pull coming up.

Good climbing

It can be done!

BP straight into the next course, a well protected 4c to get tucked into.

The crag looks out across a mouth watering vista


The interest is sustained most of the way to the belay

AT brings the grades back down another level

Just enough gear to keep happy

Variation finish stepping out right at 2/3 height adds a bit of spice

CB back in front

Fizzing away on Alka Salsa at HVS 5a

BP gets his dose of rock dancing

Much steeper than it looks from this angle

Another good route a few metres left

Sherry Trifle HVS 5a

Can't be passed up

Video below
(click bottom right for full screen)

 So time to move on to check out the lower tier.  In hindsight this was not a good idea.  Played lip service with just one route, CB again in the lead on another HVS 5a.  Two pieces of gear in 15m.

BP follows with an element of surprise...

Who in his right mind would lead up there?


 Walk out

Upper Black Crag now much more inviting

Party visible on Troutdale Pinnacle

More pics here

Happy Christmas
Sherry Trifle
Alka Salsa
Christmas Pudding
Christmas Rib
(Yule Be Surprised not in shot)

Stand Still