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Sunday, 31 August 2014

Luz Life

August 29
Up at. 2.45 out at 3.45 destination Seville.  Diversion used up contingency but Easy on the Jet.  Fast out of aero port to Sainte Justa Estacion 10.45 to Cadiz meet up Vikk and Pete short drive to El Palmar on the magnificent COSTA DEL LUZ.  Lunch siesta beach cook eat sleep routine established. 

Rancho de Luz
August 30th
Which might be a Saturday
Beach component fully installed
Mid day promenading.  

 A mighty stretch of glorious sand and sea

Decided best to turn back once in the naked German wobbly bits sector.....

Lunch component up and running.  

Evening BBQ fresh durado and king prawns on skewers red peppers etc.  Es Stupendo!

Monday.  September!!
Day trip to Zahora Del Los Atunos.  BeCh town. Mooch then long lunch on a nice rooftop verandah. Tuna tapas plus plus.  A plateful of marinated dogfish. Etc etc. beach and wonderful surfy sea. 

Tuna weather in Zahora.

Campo Thomski del playa

Last full day here. Heavy cloud off the sea headed for the hill town of Vejer la Frontera hot and sunny up there.   
White light white heat.

In Vejer
Tapas Carif tempura tuna and another set of etceteras. 

Back to Ranchos regroup hit beach about five thirty.  Big breakers. Bit of a drama in the surf. Back with the gang - relief all round.  
Pack up for tomorrow's Seville trip. 

Short clip of beach scene here
Taken early following morning, nobody much about 

Adios El Palmar.

More pics here 
(if you can get Google + going)

Wednesday, 20 August 2014


A Journal (pronounced JUHRNnal, as per Jason Donovan's JUHRney on Strictly)
covering interludes and piddling about down on the south coast at Hove.

Tuesday 19/8
Arrived five-ish after a 6.5 hour busy journey - FaceTIme with the Costa del Luz crowd then out for evening meal at Ginger Pig.  Aubergine Samosas, Chicken and Chorizo Pie, great and brilliant value thanks to VP's loyalty points.

Great evening light on the front

Wednesday 20/8


To this.....

John Lovely Dory

Classic Hove Huts
More pics here

Thursday 21st
Up at 8am for some worky biz
90 mins of powerpointage
Off out to the Sussex Downs for a big circular walk
Via the Chattri monument

As it is

As it was in 1915

3 concrete ghats
details here

Lunch at the Plough in Pyecombe all good
Windy walk back over the Downs
Veggie Thali dinner in memoriam of all the Indians, Ghurkas and Sikhs

Friday 22nd
Pre-breakfast office work - down the front to GAP and the Lanes on a mission, back to Palmeira for a sunny beer on the front of the Blind Busker whilst M has hair cut at Uber.  More office work - about 2 hours today, then happy hour in the evening sun round the back.  Well actually two minutes before a black cloud put the mockers on.

This flag means water too cold for Thomski

Saturday and Sunday
Trip up to Birmingham - Louise and Matt's wedding bash
What a trip....

View from hidden detail

Party speeches

Mr and Mrs Coles

Lawrence hanging out Sunday morning with pals
Monday 25th
Rain all day.  Stirling Place Street Party wash out.  Rest and re-group

Tuesday 26th
NHS mail password trouble - telecon at 11, Mags off to Lagoon for fishtuff.
Walk into Brighton - Resident Records, lunch at Bandstand al fresco but forced indoors by cloudburst.
Sizzling prawns and sea bass for dinner - walk out to check out Britpop night at the Maloolah Bah on Preston Street - dead loss completely empty.   Guess everybody at the Hammersmith Apollo for the Kate Bush gig (1st in 35 years)

Bus back and a short session at the Foragers (buzzing in there!)

Up early to work on H&J report, 4 hours total.

Trip out to Bexhill

Visit Delawar Gallery
This pic taken on another day by someone else

Exhibition by Ivan Chermanoff

Some great stuff

Promenading properties

Sovereign Light Cafe

As per Keane "Strangeland" Album

Meal out at the Thai, night time walk to the front

Thursday 28/8
Tidy up house then out in the sunshine along the front, lunch by the beach at Santiago - scored Cat Power on Vinyl (Ape records)

Eat out at
Indian Summer

Walk back

Adios Hove

Sunday, 17 August 2014

Long Scar Crow Bar

Friday August 15th
Long Scar
Overnight at Fairbank.  A leisurely breakfast - BP somewhat discombobular after an unusually heavy night's sleep
Given his condition I thought it best to insist I drive.... somewhat nervously up the narrow road to Wrynose (car being traded in next day - no bumps please).
Took a chance on a day at altitude and managed five and a half decent routes before abandoning in the face of a gathering storm.
Crow barred these routes in.

Had to escape off the second route - insufficient gear.

So finished up PGG as per PMcG in this shot from last year

BP (now fully focused) deals with crux (wet!) and makes great shapes on Katie's Dilemma.

"Step to the Right" follows the left leaning flakes to the block on KD then moves back up right.

AT about to come over all eponymous on Step to the Right

Moves done right - more good gear ready for moves up into the prominent niche above.

All a bit green here-abouts

Last July was bone dry, warm, and sunny!

Atmospherics a plenty up there at 550m

Wind got gustier as the day went on

Enjoyed a brief bit of sun on Twin Cracks Right - a testing route - Giddup there Mr P

Great gear all the way but that first crack is steep!

Wind got up so we wound down as the spots started spitting - abandon crag!

Aperros back at KL with Mags

Long Scar today
New Car tomorrow!

Saturday, 9 August 2014

Brimham Mission Continued

Thursday 7th April
Just a small part of this extensive prehistoric playground

An early return to make progress on the mission - starred HS/VS routes.  Hard going from the off - pushing the envelope but mostly in control, main problems involved retrieving stuck gear - fortunately nothing left behind except some shreds of skin and more routes left to do from the list.
13 stars

Starting block

Exposed in a fine position (to a gathering audience) on Maloja

AT hangs on to get some good gear in the break before heading left, up, and off.

Had a look at Jabberwok (below) - from the left gains the flake above the climber and exits through the off width niche straight above
(image © stuart100 UKC)
Maybe later......
Wandered along to Cracked Buttress

BP moving up Parallel Cracks

Crux at top with some desperate moves over bulging walls and off width cracks

RH Crack at 4b is well sustained

BP does a great job retrieving highly valued friend

AT leaves some skin behind
Hmmm - the exit crack was a beast

BP organises a group of gear for the crux of RH wall

Route goes to the right of the lower blunt arete, traverses left then up the technical crack - great gear

About to commit
- these moves are proper hard - watch me mate!

BP turns on the jamming and powers up

Pig Traverse has a lot to offer - no owls today but plenty of flutter making the moves over the right leaning overlap, AT hams it up.....

Having ticked off some of the mission list, treated ourselves to a couple of Fags to calm down

Fag End

Very amenable and rather bold

Fag Slab

Well chuffed after an afternoon of some keep-breathing climbing.

Stuff still to do....