Stealing the Limelight

 Wednesday 27 July

Time for a change of  rock after a couple of grits and some rhyolite.  That means it's time for a trip over the Ribble Head tracks for some steady lines up the limestone flakes and cracks of the ever popular;

Twistleton Scars

An early haircut got in the way of the usual 8.30 getaway, arriving around 11.15 and climbing before noon so plenty of time to wear ourselves out, nobody else there all day!

Had toyed with a trip to Gouther - but given the late start, ease of access and crag convenience won out.

There's no way you can lose the thread on Fretsaw

An excellent introduction to the feel of routes hereabouts.

Up and over

AT fiddles in a big bong to take care of the top moves

All too easy to keep going and finish on a surprisingly long run out

Abseil saves a lot of bother

The Ballad of the Irish Horse (VS 4c)

CB takes the reins, this section won't be rushed, need to bet on the right body shape and two good wires behind this flake.

CB always odds-on favourite to get over that hurdle

AT and CB added three more routes at Severe

Finished the day with the fleece off and upping the ante on Superiority (HVS 5a)

Terrific climbing, crux pull through the corner then great moves up the crozzly wall

original image

© Mick King UKC

Another UKC image

© Mick King UKC

L-R

Evening Star

Priority Corner

Superiority

The Ballad of the Irish Horse

Supreme White

Fretsaw

 

Good spot in Carperby

Jam Busters in Yorkshire Raid

 Wednesday July 20th

The record breaking country wide 4 day heatwave finally burnt itself out overnight on Tuesday.  Looking for a halfway house giving easy access from Darlington, Clitheroe and York.  After flirting with another Brimham trip someone came up with the bright idea of a nice steady day on the easier routes of Yorkshire's premier gritstone venue;

Almscliff

It didn't take very long to run out of those.......   Pinnacle Face route was taken over by a tope roping team so we had 4 good routes on Low Man for the morning session.

BP hors de combat with thumb meets blade episode

CB makes the most of the lower third of Stewpot (HVD)

NB probing the awkward first few moves on the so called Easy Way.

All rather polished especially to start, worth a stiffer grade now.

A big cam (#4) came down from above to make the finishing moves safe.

Note soft focus in AT's images.  Maybe an unintended setting to make results more like wet film.

CB reaching the same point just as the top rope gets set up

Very windy on belay

CB led up Rough Crack via Tiernan's Traverse variation at S 4a

NB gets in the finishing jams

Solid

Ages since AT played with Fluted Columns (HVD)

Lovely climbing just a couple of moves lead to huge holds up there.

All done on Low Man

The afternoon session started with a carefree stroll over to the main crag.   All a bit burly by comparison.

AT made the mistake of saying Frankland's Green Crack (VS 4c) looked good on RockFax App.

So CB set off up it.

A steady lay back start leads to a powerful crux that pulls round this bulging overlap.

NB captures an utterly compelling scene.

CB commits....

.....and pulls through to some sort of of rest.  One last gear placement before....

.... launching out onto an improbable sequence to finish the route.

Great climbing by CB

AT makes progress in reasonable style.

For a while.

Making this transition required a tight rope and a bit more.

Getting stood up in the final niche results in loss of previous style.

Made the moves up and out once got back into some sort of shape.

Mandrake much easier at HVS 5a

The start of Central Climb

VS4c ***

Hard here

Hard everywhere

Another friend goes in

More Jamming

Still steep

All in all quite very intimidating 

AT follows, no dogs barking on this one, steep but more straightforward moves than FGC.

Well earned

CB can't match AT's 1000 yard stare....

Need to get me a copy of 

Kick Out The Jams

Peak Efficiency

 Thursday June 14th

There's a lapse in the heatwave for a few days, best conditions further south, the Peak is far enough, so options galore.  In the interests of maximum mileage opted for the shortest walk in possible and the most user friendly venue in the area.  It had to be;

Yarncliffe

Last trip there 2018, we were going well then with the crag in excellent condition throughout.  Details here

Today's mission a bit less ambitious, up the mileage, maximise movement, build confidence, push the envelope just a bit.  

Five routes on this wall

Car parked about 45 seconds walk away

This sector all the ingredients.  Jamming here, crimping there, some small footholds, the occasional smear and plenty of gear. (some to be found in the boot of the car).

BP brushing his way up Ant's Crack (S 4a).

Delightful despite the sandy holds, the new brush comes in really handy here.

Latecomer (HS 4b) is also highly entertaining

Red pants de rigeur today

The forecast rain showers missed us and the rest of the day offered perfect climbing conditions with a clean sweep in prospect.

Ant's Wall (HS 4a) offers more delicate moves, a bold start leads to good gear and absorbing climbing

Angular Climb 

AT opts for the variation (at S 4a) to avoid the scruffy crack by keeping to the wall on the left.  Hard to resist side runners all the way.

Much nicer, moving back right just below the top. 

The alternate start to Cardinal's Arete (VS 4b) avoids the strenuous 4c opening moves but is quite technical and protection is a bit hard to place whilst hanging off small holds.

The red friend fits a slot here perfectly.

BP looks at the long span left that leads back to the arete proper.

That red friend also essential for a critical placement higher up. 

BP gets by with some side runners today, must take two next time!

All Ant's ticked of but this one.  Inspected on abseil.

Ant's Arete (VS 4a).  Thin moves on obscure footholds and sloping hands between small rests suggest a somewhat stiffer grade.

A lone #1 wire is all there is for quite a way.

There is finally a nest of gear options from this ledge to take care of more tenuous moves to finish the last 4 metres or so.

AT's gear also included a blue friend just right of  the small Rock Empire.

BP on 2nd found room for a yellow Metolious and #4 rock between that and the RH wire.

Collectively that would make 6.

Fall Pipe looked in very good condition.  It called to us but so did the pub.

One to come back to, AT's turn for the lay back epic at VS 4c.

Go-to Gear of the Day award goes to this new addition making its debut on the harness.

Invaluable on this dusty part of the crag.  All holds left nice and tidy for the evening gang arriving as we left on the arduous forty five second trek back to the car.

L-R

Ant's Arete

Latecomer

Ant's Crack

Ant's Wall

Angular Climb

Off Pic - Cardinal's Arete