Peel Appeal

 Sunday 12th May

The good weather spell holds up long enough for another trip to the County for a regular circuit of the most appealing routes on;

Peel Crag

One of the few venues where the walk in is actually a walk down, so off to a fast start, climbing by 10.40.  

CB ambles in.

AT starts the day off up Ulysses, an amenable VDiff with an optional RH finish which is rather bold for that grade.

The LH groove is reported as being loose and some rock has fallen out recently.

A rare picture of a tidy rope, somehow managed to get it into a right mess not once but twice, took almost as long to sort it out as getting up the route.

Common factor both times down to AT.  Or was it CB?

CB about to effect the awkward transition from the technical start of Overhanging Crack, which is coming up next.

AT followed ok until the jams went in the wrong way round in the big crack.  Got it 2nd go.

AT invokes a Sunset clause.

Unknown climber on same route

Twin Cracks is also on view up the left of this picture.

A very tough start VS5a in the County

HVS everywhere else

©Simnel UKC

CB past the major difficulties on Twin Cracks.

AT followed up the right then a pendulum in on CB's tight rope gained the niche below the brown oblong centre pic.

From July 2003.   It's in the logbook with a tick and I remember it being ok.  I guess that must mean the years have not been kind....

Finished the day with a new route, Chockstone Chimney, really enjoyable route with an exposed finish great gear all the way.

Routes L-R
Overhanging Crack
Ulysses
Chockstone Chimney
Sunset
Twin Cracks

Wheatsheaf in Corbridge closed.  Other places not as good.

Some greats in this mix

Kylorama

  Tuesday 30 April

It felt like time for an early visit to the Lakes.  The weather forecasts fickled things about from day to day, Tuesday looked hopeful on Sunday but by Monday it was iffy. Then the sunny prospects out west for Tuesday looked stymied by rain in the morning.  Sunny but windy in the east.  The deadlock was broken with one magic word that came WhatsApping in from CB.

Kyloe!

Despite the loss of large swathes of the surrounding trees, it remains a reliably sheltered venue from any wind in most directions.  Made good time travelling despite the ongoing upheaval around the western bypass.  Parking by 10.25 and climbing just after 11.00. A hazy sun gathered strength as the day went on and by mid afternoon it was proper glorious.

The ultimate in user friendliness, short walk in, level ground, table top boulders, all climbs only minutes away, tree belays, no crowds.  Worth the 1 hour 50 minute drive.

Hang on a Mo!

CB gets the day off to a great start on this amenable route with a logical direct finish up the exciting steep layback.  

AT leads the same exit out of Christmas Tree Arete.  Jugs arrive a couple of more moves from here.

It's a montage but it captures the moment of commitment.

CB unable to free a friend left by a previous party.

CB on Fakir's Crack

Abseiling off the route in a vain attempt to retrieve another piece of gear left on Wilfred Prickles.

No swag today then.

Meanwhile another team tackles the classic Gagarin's Groove, leader heading off rightwards from the start of Christmas Tree Arete, the main difficulties in prospect from here.

Time for one more before lunch.

CB ready to receive AT to lead Fakir's Slab. Goes up the leaning pillar on the left.  

HVD is wrong.  Gear (orange dots) is ok, two friends and an offset.  But the cracks above are blind so the run out is nervy.  Obscure slopers for feet and a one finger pocket.   UKC logbook reports many opting to escape up the recess to the right.

After a bit of a gibber, AT manned up and claimed HS 4b!

(as per UKC consensus!)

After lunch, CB accepts the challenge of the left hand line of the slab (above right).  Today it's pretty green and rejects all best efforts, fortunately the landing is soft and CB is used to falling off ladders.

The right hand approach is in better shape and has more holds.  The finish up the wall is as pokey as ever!

CB dispatches with alacrity.

It's been a while (2016) since AT actually led Deception Crack, so had a go at sneaking up it today.

Came back down after a struggle half way.  CB suggested a 5 min. break, fetched coffee and gave thumbs up to AT's ideas about the crux moves  Good therapy Mr B.

Went up again, stuck with the plan - it worked!  Won't get fooled again!

Picture from 2008 - just completed crux moves.

Climber shows the way up Flake Crack, very nicely done considering only her 3rd day on rock.

These young people!

AT followed CB up same then finished the day, and himself, off with a good battle up the burly Conifer Direct. 

On way to the Belford Boozer for gentlemanly libations.

Good crack there with a bunch of geezers doing the coastal path.

The Revolution will be no replay brother

      The Revolution will be LIVE!