Scot Crags Quickie

 15th June 

It looked like it was a week off, but CB had a cancellation so got back in the game for a short session on the sun drenched walls at;

Scot Crags Scugdale

CB in a dazzling position early in the day on Razor Rib Direct.

Believe it or not this gets a mere VD, but truth is the camera does not lie in this shot.

Personally it rates a solid severe.

Finishing already holds filled with chalk

Someone is having their version of a laugh.

Later on AT led Tooth and Nail (HS4c)

(second on this pic from a while back)

The big block to the right of CB now resides at the bottom of the crag owing to recent moronism.

Here it is at the foot of the route

Plenty of other lesser blocks have been uprooted and lobbed off.

UKC reports are here

CB had to be back early, so the pub was open as we passed by.

On a hot day the heat has to be offset somehow....

Image sent to Vogue

Shepherds All Stars

 Wednesday June 7th

Great conditions continue to prevail out west, whilst east of the Pennines the North Sea maintains its malign influence on the local meteorology.  Wondered if Corby's might move back to the top of the list, but the promise of a full day's sunshine swung it so we were back at Borrowdale to select some starred routes at;

Shepherd's Crag

Depart 08.30 for a 10.05 arrival at Kettlewell car park.  Just one party setting off up Adam and by 10.50 AT all geared up to head up P1-2 of the classic Little Chamonix.  Need to hold it together for about 8 metres on polished holds then the route simply swallows gear.

The start to Adam is pretty poky so we pressed on.

CB on the high reaches of Little Chamonix P3

Terrific outlook from the belay corner

Top pitch

CB peeking down top right

Vista from the Belvedere

CB places gear on the upper wall of Derision Groove (MVS 4b)

Rope Ritual

Derwent Water

Today's boat being pushed out.

CB leads Kransic Crack Direct (HVS 5a).  

From here make committing moves through the bulge and out onto a steep wall and positive holds to finish.  AT followed in good order.

Original image © cheeky UKC 

Reaching the good holds in a fantastic position

Original image © Robbie Hearns UKC

Brown Slab Scoop 

CB starting the final run out section, of which there are three on this route.  

The start.  The middle.  And the end.

There is gear, just enough once past the tree and above the moss.

Kransic Crack Direct

Brown Slabs Scoop

Crag very quiet, just one or two parties not doing very much

From the night before

Chuck Prophet

Leeds Brudenell Social Club

Quayfoot Crackers

Wednesday May 31st

Northumberland was mooted as a potential option with Corby's on the list for another go at making some routes work at that venue.  However the Lakes weather looked much better, with nailed on sunshine all day and virtually no rain there for the last three weeks.  

So the window for one of this year's objectives was wide open. The plan slid effortlessly into place and a ten am departure from BW timed things just right for the Borrowdale sun to come round onto;

Quayfoot Buttress

After last year's Mandrake outing, the mission was to do a repeat of Aberration (climbed with BP June 2014), and a new route (for AT) Irony, a fairly natural follow on at HVS 5a.  A Big Day in the North!

Set out from Darlington in cold, grim and slightly damp conditions but once past Appleby it was wall to wall blue sky and perfect climbing weather.  First route of the day under way at 12.25.

Seemed sensible to fill the time before the sun came round with a sortie up the always shaded ramps and walls of the regular VDiff.  

Rock in great condition and a world of difference from the water dripping off the route back in April 2015 with NB and The Gman.

Seems like CB gets the 1000 mile stare

Meanwhile the spirit of JW remains on belay there ever since 15/9/2002

AT clipped in after the initial bold move at the start of Aberration P2

Fabulous position and setting

Great climbing across the slab with good holds and eventually good gear.

The finishing chimney is no pushover though.

BP back in 2014

CB weaving a way up P1-2 of Irony

For the record the route moves right at the first overhang (mid picture).  Some climbers are tempted left there.

Just saying.

CB helped AT struggle up to the belay with a load bearing rope

AT had got some sneaky beta on abseil and fancied the chances of leading the crux P3.

A peg protects(?) the tricky moves to the left and the pull up onto the headwall above.

Unfortunately  after several goes AT is unable to find a rabbit out of the hat and leaves it to CB to show the way.

Busy day from 2009 on the upper reaches of the crag.

CB on the Crypt (bottom left)

Climber on Aberration (centre left)

Climbers starting Irony P3 

(upper right)

L-R

Quayfoot Buttress

Aberration

Irony

In the pub by 17.50!

 

 Let it Bleed Post Script;

A little critter hitched a ride back and helped itself to a feed of blood from just below AT left knee.  Spotted on Friday early morning, went to DMH A&E.  Seen within 20 minutes by a young doctor who was expert in extricating the tick with specially shaped tweezers.  All completely removed and comprehensive oral and written information on what to watch for and any action to take if symptoms develop.  Fantastic service. Well done DMH!