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Tuesday, 23 June 2015

In a Corner of the Morning in the Past

Sunday 21st

Man Who Sold the World Concert - O2 Academy Leeds
With Clive

Featuring the Great Tony Visconti
Marc Almond guest vocals After All, Oh You Pretty Things, Watch That Man)
Altogether terrific show
CT un-mistakable in grey hat, almost dead centre of pic

Morning after
Breakfast at Valeries Patisserie

CT checks out cunningly disguised time travel capsule

Too late - we'd already been back to 71.......

Gig review here

Short clip from the gig here

Meanwhile Mags away whooping it up at the fabulous Carole King show

Friday, 19 June 2015

Ripping Yarns

Thursday June 18th

This week's requirements:-

Full Wibble turn out, hats obligitaire
Range of routes
A bit of nonsense

All requirements met!  Nonsense provided courtesy of the top ropers from Barnsley, supplying a constant backdrop of broad accented banter.   Pretty cool to start with but sun got out later on and warmed things up somewhat.

Debut for BP's new hat, note low key design and muted colour detail

Auditioning for part in next Star Wars film

NB gets proceedings under way on the imaginatively named Outdoor Centre Route (VD)

On Angular Climb (HVD)

PM and NB somehow finding it easy to have a good time

How did we let that happen?

BP contemplates finishing moves on Ant's Wall
(HS 4a)

The top does not look very inviting!

PM follows making most of last day out before a short vacation at the Freeman

Nice going youth

AT sinning a way up Cardinal's Arete VS 4c having deviantly bypassed the 4c start to conserve feeble biceps

Will have to come back and rock up that pumpy first bit

NB nearing the thought provoking transition on Latecomer (HS4b)

Neatly does it

AT fiddling in numbers 1 and 2 wires into a thin break on Ant's Arete (VS 4b)

Soon after another climber makes the crux move in a fine position at the same spot

He owes me a beer for the beta....

Still enough time left for another route

Cardinal Crack VS 5a

Had to work hard on keeping concentration going versus the backchat from Barnsley.  "Are you safe?"  she asked her partner.  "He won't be safe until he's got to the pub" said BP as he wiggled in yet another wire and we all cracked up.

A truly compelling line

"Go on, fill yer boots!"

Hard moves above gear

The route in full

Wonder what grade the crack on the right could be? Surely not much more than a
soft V Diff?

Saturday, 13 June 2015

Friday on my mind

Friday June 12th

Monday morning feels so bad
Everybody seems to nag me
Comin' Tuesday I'll feel better
Even my old man looks good
Wednesday just won't go
Thursday goes too slow

I've got Friday on my mind!

With a bit of juggling managed to crow bar in this weeks climbing day, and grabbing the last of the recent high pressure good weather spell.  Worked through a long list of options out west, ruling most of them out as being too far, too ambitious, or too unknown.

So settled(?) for a Borrowdale Multicrag.

Black Crag.
Troutdale Pinnacle Direct (VS 4b, 4c)

A few people at the crag, fortunately on different routes, although this didn't prevent some wrangling over crossed ropes and shared belays owing to some lack of consideration by a veteran pair; and a novice party making very slow progress.  Fair play to the latter who were very laid back about it all.

Black Crag route, (dotted line shows pitch behind the pinnacle)

AT working out moves up the steep bit on P1

BP laps up the dazzling light and impeccable rock on P2

Unknown climber on Brown Crag Eliminate E15b

Note rather worrying absence of gear, however at least a good wire is in by his right foot.

Perched on pinnacle

Think have been here before....

But what a spot - great to be back!

Over at Shepherds Crag
The legs are out


Consistently difficult moves?

Proper steep

AT takes it to the bridge with some kinky leg action

And again....

Hip joints still seem to be rotating

Thank God the gussets are also sound
Nick Cave
"I discovered Leonard Cohen with Songs of Love and Hate. In the past, I only listened to my brother’s records. I liked what he liked, followed him like a sheep. Leonard Cohen was the first one I discovered by myself. He is the symbol of my musical independence.  The sadness of Cohen was inspiring, it gave me a lot of energy. I always remember all this when someone says that my records are morbid or depressing".
Indeed it does

Wednesday, 10 June 2015

What's so funny about peace love and understanding

Tuesday 9th June
Elvis at Sage
Thanks to Phillip and Pauline for the gift of birthday tickets

Tour de Force, from the great entertainer

Shipbuilding on the old 88

Monday, 8 June 2015

Summer in the City

4th - 8th June


Four nights back at the Premier Inn Earl's Court for a few days of warm southern sunshine away from the northern cold winds and all round grimness.

Hyde Park Heat

That's more like it.....

Friday 5th

Birthday venture to Borough Market and Greenwich via the Clipper

Need something to wash down that haloumi health food lunch

Too good to miss

From the Clipper

Earl's Court

Transport jump-off

Breakfast Central

Plus late evening decaff fix

Richmond riverside evening scene

Sky is full of aeroplanes

Sunday in Sutton


Hot Dog elemental

BBQ and Bar

Great sign off to a terrific few days in the south

An old Waincoat will never let you down

June 3rd
Since last week's Peak trip been decidedly under par with a gastric bug of some sort. So played safe with a trip to local venue - scene of outside debut on 1998. 
Owing to camera taking up temporary residence in the Jet Miners a full blog will follow in due course. 
Meanwhile here is BP reclining on a windswept bit of rock at the end of a busy day at the office. 

Camera recovered...
BP makes crux moves on Ling Corner (HS 4a)

Brilliant light shows up all the features on 
Sphinx Nose Traverse (S 4a)
BP gives the eye the eye

Committing to the hard move up
on Christopher (VS 4b)

After some struggling, eventually a bit of harsh language got himself up to the critical undercut hold

Something like
For F's sake get up the F'ng F'er the B'strd C!!

After which normal service is resumed

And it's just a small matter of sorting out the sequence for the step around the bulge into the pleasant finishing groove


Thanks to Blokeonarope (UKC) for this sequence of pics

Said bloke borrows some pro and following a top rope try out gets on the lead on
Lemming Slab (E45c)
It's a long way to up any gear

A solid jam rest before the final hard moves to the top
Good effort!

Finished off with a couple of routes on the Broughton face in a futile attempt to escape the wind

AT on Morning Wall
(S 4a)
Big friend protects this awkward move

BP shows great certainty on Tiny's Dilemma (S 4b)

A soloist on the same route some other time
© Climbster UKC