The Gunter Tapes: June 2022

Wednesday 29 June 2022

Look North

Tuesday 28th June

A week is a long time in weather.uk. Last Tuesday was a bit of a blue sky boiler, add seven days and it's strong southerly winds and a high cloud cover. So given how dry it's been there has to be the prospect of good conditions at the north facing moors classic venue of;

Raven's Scar

Just as planned all was quiet and still in the lee of the imposing dark facets stretching below the crest of Hasty Bank. A quick confab and an amenable intro to the day led to tackling two variations on the steep walls and breaks of the Airlift monolith.

AT sets up for the airy finish

Belay all pre-arranged courtesy BP

BP took advantage of the pre-set belay and repeated the route

But starting a bit lower down at the bottom of the right right wall.

Adds a lot to the intimidation factor.

Tumble Down Crack (VS 5a) has been on the wish list for a while.

Good gear above but AT couldn't find the right moves to make much progress

Despite a combined effort the wish list is where it stays.

BP nearly got to the half way ledge (top left) but had to back off the precarious exit.

TM on this route

Attempted similar shapes but missed out of some holds higher up on the left.

Back on to the spectacular line of Forest Face (HS 4b)

The best route at the grade in the NYM

AT contemplates the moves up the steep undercut groove of En Passant (S 4b)

Turned into a bit of an arm stretching struggle.

Late lunch (protracted efforts on Tumble Down Crack) then BP took a turn on Waterslide (HS 4b)

In better shape than 4 weeks backl, plenty of chalk, a lot less gunge.

Nonetheless very good value

All today's belays in a superb setting

A bit of fun to finish off

Tumble Down Dick is better than it looks

Still not easy having a good time

Note

Route 3 is a DNF

selected

tracks

off

these

three

greats

Sunday 26 June 2022

Peak Pandemonium

Tuesday 21st June

Just a month short of three years since and Peak District action, finally returned to the same venue as back in July 2019 before anyone had heard of SARS Covid-2. Good to be back post-pandemic, all was peace and quiet until a bunch of veterans turned up mob-handed and pandemonium broke out. After putting up with the continuous blather we thought of upping sticks to a nearby venue but said party moved on to Millstone. Leaving us and another team back in the shady glades that grace the base of the quarried lines on;

Lawrencefield

Heat was building from the get-go, a steady pace and uncomplicated climbing was the order of the day.

Visitors from far afield (Norway and Gloucestershire) enjoying their Peak District debut.

Thanks for use of the ab chaps!

BP kicked our day off with this line (Snail Crack)

Here's the local gang givin' it welly lad! It wuh reet gudd.

Soon after they headed away for "propuh clarmin" elsewhere.

Peace be with us

AT opts for a wander up Bole Hill.

An awkward mantel at mid height adds interest.

Meanwhile one of ATs shoes went mysteriously missing.

Found hanging off a Norwegian harness! EH?

BP deals with awkward crux on Nova (HS 4b)

Thought provoking

AT starts the usual gear fest half way up Gingerbread.

Three wires and two cams take care of most of the rest of the route.

No room for error on the final moves.

Belay is bomb proof

Peak debutants going well on Excalibur VS 4c

Sustained climbing.

More sustained stuff.

Great Harry 0

Visitors 2

Floated up it. Similar to the rock back home?

BP finishes off the day with a fine effort up the corner of Limpopo Groove.

Hard moves to finish.

(photo from April 2017)

Locals

Time to head for our own drinking hole.....

Friday 17 June 2022

Hot Grit

Friday 16th June

CB returns from Peak Sport to get back with a trad programme. Whitestone Cliff mooted but given the lack of much in the way of routes that long of late, opted for a session at the rarely frequented;

Slipstones

Arrived at the layby 10.30, CB already there fresh from an early appointment in Thirsk. Dentist had made short work of repairs. England in grip of a heat wave, but temperatures up north not reaching the southern extremes. Still pretty warm but there is plenty of friction here. So hot grit is no excuse to let the grades slip down as the heat goes up.

The back of Bedlin Block was still catching some sun. AT scuttled up 20 foot crack then CB switched sides to tackle the arete finish on Mantelshelf Wall (VS 4c)

The finish is delicate and run out.

These two obvious lines came next, AT repeated Not So Tight Chimney (climbing needs a good deal more imagination than the name).

After lunch CB waltzed up the big layback to the left.

AT couldn't manage any kind of dance, goes down as a DNF.

Not for the want of trying, four attempts. Gave it all physically, but didn't think about options

AT switched to the arete on Bedlin Block and made the delicate footwork stick on Tranmire Arete.

CB moved a few metres right to take on Easy Pickings (VS 4c)

Steep climbing characterises most routes at this crag. No exception here.

Crux is low down but it keeps going all the way.

AT makes a short traverse to reach the finishing holds of Aces High (VS 4c).

The good ledge on the right was a powerful lure, unfortunately once gained it was too high to reach back right to place good gear in the break at knee height. So the finish is unnecessarily bold.

Went down and did it again properly with gear in there. CB belaying from the top.