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Friday, 20 July 2018

Swirl it Up

Thursday July 19th
Another window opens up with a good forecast and no committments, so with motivation still high after a day's rest it was time to revisit the long planned return to

Upper Swirl Crag
Walk in via the Helvellyn track, follow the wall, through the wall, then continue a couple of hundred metres to an open area with a boulder.  Follow a faint track up through bracken, up between two small outcrops then up the scree. Forty minutes in.  25 minutes out.

BP gets the First One in
(left)








 



After this AT gave Sunset a go.  Not many people have.

All rather worrying for severe.  Finished up Tight Fit - the 5a next door - felt safer.





BP sets up belays for the day.  Good boulder but well
back.


Did Tight Fit on a TR (no low pro).  Excellent climbing, fingerlocking good!  Lead possible.


BP tackles the beetling rock of Midge Wall.



Wide angle pic here






Back in June 2013, BP Rudolfed a way up the start of Ballet Mecanique with some very dynamic moves

Photo by NB







At repeats the choreography and a quick JETÉ leads to a solid landing.

Slings galore, should have taken more!





From here head right into the blocky corner



A splendid steep shape-fest finale




Great setting

Fabulous weather


Thirlmere well down



BP gallops up the Knacker's Yard


Some Yee Haa! moves gain a photo finish



As routes go it's a winner!



The Runs

A very pokey start gains the undercut groove
Some bold moves follow


AT tucks trousers into socks and stiffens resolve




The groove is undercut at the start.

Entry is encouraged by some strenuous moves on poor holds above a bad landing.

A sapling invites a sling but its as dead as a dry twig.

Otherwise it's very nice.
L-R
Sunset
Tight Fit
The First One
Midge Wall
Ballet Mecanique
The Runs
The Knackers Yard

A great day's traditional Lakeland sport
More pictures here

 

Wednesday, 18 July 2018

ALT-Yarncliffe Esoterica

The drought comes to a sudden end with a some rain across most of the north.  But the storage heater effecs just burns it all off.  What's more some routes more usually relegated to esoterica by slime muck and moss have dried out, cleaned up by locals and so become temporarily COMPELLING.  Some examples of these to be found on the north facing facets at
Yarncliffe

A couple of looseners on the main face




Ants Wall (BP)

AT led Ant's Crack on the left


Brush comes in handy



A short walk leads to the Zapple sector.

North Facing routes benefiting from a month of hot weather


BP takes stock after smoking a way up the crux of Fall Pipe

(VS 4c **)

Zapple LH follows the zig zag crack and could go at HVS 5a next time?





Protection is great

But the crux demands some bottle with hard moves above the last gear

Get up there!!



Back to the main crag

AT sets up for the bold few moves up the headwall of Cardinal's Arete


A fine line

A bit run out



Meanwhile other parties tackle Ant's Arete and Latecomer


STP follows the obvious crack on the right.  Came well recommended by one of the other parties.  Very rarely in such clean condition.

BP just had to get it done!

Top end VS 4c.

A full set of jams required.

No action shots, close to the limit especially gaining the top crack.


Things going well enough to attempt the technical Cardinal's Slab at VS 5a


Unfortunately there was insufficient technique in the tank, had to abort and move up the VDiff next door




Routes to come back to pronto!

Pedestal Arete HS 4b moves up the steps from the right and goes up the arete on the left before finishing on the right.

Capital Cracks VS 4c goes up the obvious central crack via a  hard start from the left

Note; Cardinal Arete 4b start






Thursday, 12 July 2018

It's Coming Hove

July 7th -14th

Trains, no boats or planes,
took us away,
to see a star rise over the Dome,
his name's BB,
he plays and conducts and sings,
quite brilliantly
(except the singing bit)

Fabulous show!!
Review here

Managed to watch all the World Cup semi final at Hove Place
It didn't come home but they did their best











The Hove Plinth


Evening peace

Everybody else stuck in front of the semi



Risky business!


Didn't want to watch

So took a pic!





On the way for early evening at La Fourchette

Almost Andalucia?
This week's itinerary
Saturday arrive
Sunday walk to Brighton then at Brooker for yummy afternoon evening eats
Monday shopping, evening Polpo and Dome for BB
Tuesday Lagoon and Semi Final at Hove Place Pub
Wednesday ride out to White Cliff cafe
Thursday Fridge install fiasco
Friday into Brighton, drinks at Mashed Tun, eveneing at La Fourchette
Saturday, breakfast at Brooker then lift to station and away.

Monday, 9 July 2018

Heat Treatment

Friday July 6th

NB hanging with the dog over in Ribbleworld.  Venue options in the Airedale and Wharfdales looking favourite.  Tempted by Simon's Seat.   In the continuing heatwave the laws of energy and time conservation prove dominant factors in the day's calculation.
Ribble + Wibble x3/4 equals

Brimham Rocks


Some more Cubic Equations to solve for starters

Gravity at the base of the crag feels unusually strong today


NB finds it eases with height





BP plays with the same moves


Dainty




AT gets assistance from NBs well practiced psychic powers





BP solved Shorty's Dilemma and found a Square Root before AT takes a turn up Cubic Corner


 Cams at the double!


There are still new shapes to be made even on the old favourites



Animation here



On to Cannon Rock











A couple of toots on the flutes and it's time for the pro to go






BP ready to finish off up the steady groove


NB follows - dog duties oblige early finish






Grit Corner
A minor classic

How have we passed this one by?



Time for two more
Mostly shaded

Overlapping Wall (R)
Another tough start

and Duggies Dilemma
No gear - TR

More pics here






Four new routes on the list and more to do