Still Moor....

Tuesday 28th August
Joined in with TM and MT on their planned visit to another NYM classic and a long standing favourite venue .....

The Wainstones

20th anniversary since AT first outside lead - "Wall and Ledge" written up in the Stewart Wilson guide for July 1998, having first seconded Jackdaw Gully in the rain in boots.

Not so still today, wind was well up on the edge

TM tackles the very fine Ridge Route (S 4a)

Gets HS 4b in the SW guide

Seems more like it.  Start very beefy.  Bold and delicate in the middle.

AT gives it beef

Crank for all it's worth

Christopher always seems a little precarious.

A secret hold helps but that would be telling....

The Bulge gets a go from the same stance, would be rude not to.

Apparently there used to be a secret hold but TM broke it off.

TM shapes a way round the bulge

The finishing slab seems to offer an easy finish.  But it is delicate and brooks no lapse in concentration.

The uber classic just had to get done despite the flappy wind.


MT looks on the bright side in advance of the fantastic finishing moves.








AT makes some minxy sphinxy shapes

Visiting veterans making a very tidy effort on the Little Bo Beep.

An intimidating lead

Lingering on before heading over the more sheltered WNW side.

MT follows up Morning Wall


Careful with that wig

Tony's Dilemma

To lead?
Or not to lead?

Either way 5a moves and maybe a bit more these days?

Secrets all safe as software....

Better holds up there!

All Top Secret

AT studies the spot where feet need to be

All AT pics by TM

There's a secret hold up there somewhere

Moor moor moor!

August 24th

Fickle weather all week, not worth risking a longer drive given the prospect of frequent heavy showers so threw the dice on another session at

Scot Crags Scugdale

As expected conditions very mixed
Precipitation for the most part only fleeting

Woodpecker Wall dried out very quickly after a persistent spell of rain and hail

Like most routes here there's lots of action per metre


NB gets a good work out

Unfortunately we couldn't work this out

A shiny new dual axle number 4 BD cam stuck in Blaeberry Crack

Will need wrecking

 Time to quit the crag!  Four hours well spent!

NY Moorish

14 August

Invited to a party over in the NYM, who could resist the lure of a day out at

Scot Crags, Scugdale

Today's glitch - AT leaves rock boots in the garden room - but one size fits all so cue new climbing call "Boots below".

TM brings up MT in traditional style

Fiddling for a placement half way up Tooth and Nail

A long dry spell then some heavy rain has provided peerless rock


Clean as a whistle

Photos by TM













Time for tales of derring do

 

The finishing moves on Pisa Buttress seem to have got harder lately


BP ready to go

There's new routes for BP even at this much visited venue

Remus VS 4c





Plenty of weather, but no rain

More delightful climbing


BP is alright Jack









Rock boots resting where I left them.
Have a day off

Peaky Blinder

August 9th
All options possible good weather everywhere.  The feeling of unfinished business was overwhelming so it was inevitable that today's crag just had to be

Yarncliffe

The right hand routes remain clean and dry in the continuing fine weather, the objectives explicit and the drive down was fueled by a great sense of mission.

BP's lead yet again!

Get's off to an early start on Latecomer

AT in matching shirt and rope continues in the same style on Ant's Wall


The guide description is a bit misleading.  Anyone expecting "good holds and runners" is going to be very disappointed for 20 feet or so.

Next up, today's mission #1

Capital Cracks VS 4c **
is hard to start (bottom left)


Then fine technical climbing up the compelling central crack

Mr P in great form


Sustained but never desperate

Except for the first three metres off the ground


Worth *** surely

Today's mission #2

Pedestal Arete comes in from the right then follows the other side of the soaring arete before finishing up the right

AT offers to belay

No takers so carries on regardless



Airy climbing

BP climbs Fall Pipe on the last visit

Today's mission #3

Zapple LH (HVS 5a)

Follows the crack system on the right

BP earns a two footed rest of sorts after the crux moves on poor holds.

Smears and toe jams, slopers for hands.  PHEW!

Another climber another day faces up to the same sequence


Keeps going all the way up


Great effort by Mr P
All hail the new HVS leader!

© Peakology UKC

Ant's Arete provides a contrasting finale.



AT thinking about a delicate move above a number 1 wire.

More small wires a bit further up, plus small friend to protect a bold finish

Another angle



Still some routes to do at this year's GO-TO crag in the Peak

Park Nab Capstone Capers

Tuesday August 7th

After a long day way out up Wrynose a local crag felt more fitting - it's been a while since we've paid a vist to

Park Nab

A good few routes done
L-R
Forked Crack
Twin Cracks
Ladies Gully
Pinnacle LH
The Scoop
Longbow


Twin cracks too good to leave alone.
Yellow dots gear placements.

Usually the finish is up the easy scoop right of the holly.

AT opted for a direct finish to the left, protected(?) by a big nut under the capstone
 
NB had trouble getting it out

Mainly owing to it being trapped in by the weight of the lardy leader.

Things went a bit WOAHBBLY when it finally came out!  Click here to get the drift

AT rolls with it


There's about a ton of stone poised with about 2 inches of wobble built in

NB shows how the crux moves were done in 2014

Some guests arrived with currant buns and goodies.

So we returned the favour and treated them to a few turns on a top rope!

Team Wobble kept going with a couple more routes

NB on a very difficult diff

There are no gimmes at Park Nab

AT kept the arrow pointing upwards as per May 2014 on Longbow

Note
4 and 5 with guests

Hoven Temperature

29 July

Last minute opt-out of northern life for a split to the south and better weather.

Meets up with bruv-in-law Sunday Tuesday Wednesday, all the time the heat getting hotter


Alone in a sea of shingle

The whitest boy on the beach

Evening out at The Hove Place












Supper in the garden very ambient

Pride on the march