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Sunday, 18 April 2021

 Scot Free

Friday April 16th

High Pressure in charge.  Time to continue rehab with some more training at the reliably brilliant

Scot Crags; Scugdale

Enjoyed a stimulating strong coffee al fresco at the just re-opened Rusty Bike and headed up, arrived crag about 11.15.  


 

John (formerly Aycliffe Wall manager) already in action on Holly Tree Wall.


AT warms up on familiar moves

Rock impeccable today.


Another party on Woodpecker Wall

Fancy those yellow pants




BP in a fine position on Corner Left Hand.

A much better route than its name



















Black Horse Swainby delivered the goods outside in the afternoon sun

Rockin drive













Tuesday, 13 April 2021

Cleveland Come-Back

Monday April 12th

2021.  The climbing year starts late, pandemic rules milestone today.  Permission to travel.  Permission to meet in groups outside.  Add in some decent weather, and everything falls into place for a return to the crags, here we are again at the ever-welcoming;

Wainstones

  Raven Scar looks off limits today



Walk in requires winter tactics


CB has the gear.




Today's venue (©MG with thanks)



AT gets his leading year off to a less than auspicious opening with a variation on Slab Climb Variation.  Seemed sensible to use the best holds on offer until brought up to an abrupt halt below the top wall.  
After some gibbering, the extra gear from BP rendered the exit safe enough.  
Phew



(Au contraire) BP  selects the default de rigeur Diff to get  his season started.

That's the thing about common sense.  It's not that common.  





AT''s rope came in handy for these chaps, between them they hadn't brought one.

Ooops.






CB throws some hip action to start the awkward sequence on Christopher



The pull round remains problematic. 
BP resolves. 


This very unusual angle captured by BP 


CB ready to dispense BETA to leader on Wall and Ledge







Ling Buttress routes done in good order

BP despatches a lead up Ling Corner with some alacrity.



A bomb proof wire finds a home.
                                   CB follows up on the variation finish at HS4b

                                                     Would make a tough lead.  Later.



Scenes
©MG


The Corner Variation follows the line of the rope
©MG




Sphinx Nose Traverse.

BP brings the session to a great finish on this 
megga-classic 








Peerless.






Next Stop
The Jet Miners 


More pictures 



Monday, 8 February 2021

Sixty Six and The Return of the Beast

Feb 6th - 8th

Birthday weekend, grim weather, Monday arrived accompanied by wild snow flurries and a biting north easterly direct from Scandinavia and beyond.

Some Saturday scenes - 66 and all that!







All buffed up

Prezzie bag
Books (Bowie, Beatles, Visconti)

CD -The Band

Jigsaw - Ziggy Stardust album cover

FitBit, notepad, pens, and a new pinnie!

All the way from 77 a Rams programme

A bottle of Red!  and some Fizz!

Ready to Zoom with the Hove gang.  Where's the curry? 




All the way from Brighton.  Fantastic!




Sunday drifted by.  Baked some bread.


Monday morning scene.  The beast from the east is back again.





After a bit of messing about the weather cleared up enough for a short walk nearby.



Country Life







Home for baked beans home made bread toasted and vibes to match.



Here's a gift from Chuck Berry

Well if you ever plan to motor west

Just take my way, that's the highway that's the best
Get your kicks on Route 66
Well it winds from Chicago to L.A
More than 2000 miles all the way
Get your kicks on Route 66


Well it goes from St Louis, Joplin, Missouri
Oklahoma City looks oh-so pretty
You'll see Amarillo and Gallup, New Mexico
Flagstaff, Arizona don't forget Winona
Kingsman, Barstow, San Bernadino


Would you get hip to this kindly tip?
Just take that California trip
Get your kicks on Route 66

Saturday, 16 January 2021

Blackwell on Ice

Friday January 15th

Cold, bright, baltic in Blackwell this morning.  Late morning walk out across the o;ld golf course to the South Park boulder and back via Southend Avenue.


Ravensworth (15 miles away) reported lowest 

England overnight at -9C  Brrr!!






On the old course.

Crunchy!




Ducks, geese and gulls struggle to get a grip.




Boulder



              







Back for hot soup lunch






Saturday, 2 January 2021

Aspirations

January 2nd 2021

With there not being much action in 2021, it feels like there could be dangerously low levels of drivel in the once bottomless pit.  In this, the golden age of credit, there is always the option to get an advance withdrawal against the prospect of a future rush of the stuff.  So the time is right to look ahead, not back (too much) and start putting some investment into aspirations for 2021.  Or beyond, who knows?

Given the lack of mileage and the drop across all capabilities of the climbing spectrum, there's no alarms and no surprises, and so there's some hope that there will be takers.  Hopefully there is enough ambition in there to pique some interest.  Of course there are many more destinations that will no doubt figure, but these are the ideas that have floated to the top.   

So to get the ball rolling here's an offer of A Big Day in The North.

We're talking Dow Crag, B-Buttress.  Last climbed in 2006.  A very big Diff.  Hence "Giant" features in the route name.  A huge sweeping ramp in three pitches, steady climbing, needs to be dry.  Then a traverse back left across blocky ground to a fine finishing groove jug and gear fest and a scramble out.

So we'll stick with the G's.  Next up a personal favourite, been up there with most partners except one.  


You know who you are.  Man up!

An amenable walk in plonks you at the bottom of a 7 pitch severe, here's the best one and it's right high up.  About 4a/b.  Can be done with simple rack, single rope, walk out off the summit.  What's not to like?





Let's make it 3G's with this as yet to be done route on Gimmer



At least we might find the start (upper picture).

C-Route, this guy is up there somewhere.  Need to go see where.

Let's make it 4G!  It's Gimmer again!

Here's another gotta be done at MVS 4b.



NW Arete.


Before we seem to have bitten off far more than can be chewed,  the following venues are all on the must visit list.  

So there's every chance for progression towards the previous more adventurous offerings.



The eternally brilliant Castle Rock of Triermain.




The Peak!  A fine user friendly and varied climbing venue.






Not forgetting Borrowdale's most versatile roadside crag.  All to play for there.


Here's a possible venue for a meet up with NB over the other side of the Pennines.

Crookrise.





Finally there's always masses of great sport within easy reach (sorry Norm not for you so much these days).


Put your name down for any one or more of these great day's out!

 Book Early!