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Monday, 18 June 2018

Hove Nocturnal

June 12-17

Hove
Drove down to meet up after the Wales epic, in advance of the Blenheim Palace show
Had a visitor



Colourful

Sunset at Blenheim Palace
Nick Lowe
Waterboys
Elvis Costello



Plus special last minute guests

What a scene!
"It's shocking what squalor some people live in" 

Some EC action 
And the one and only great 


Thursday, 14 June 2018

The Cymru Capers

June 9th-11th
The miraculous weather continues to hold good and the planned weekend was given the GO-CODE.  A last minute booking for two nights B&B at the Bryn Glo in Capel Curig and the mission was on for some outlaw adventures in
North Wales




BP arrives at the BRYN GLO residence








Nice and private upstairs rooms...
Bryn Glo Base.  Checked in at 14.15 and quick drive to Betws-y-Coed and a short walk up the through the woods to launch a long weekend of climbing capers at

Colgwyn Cirau



BP on Long Climb Direct.

A bit bold for opening severe











Great vistas
Cravate de rigeur in the heat


AT nerves jangling at the base of the bulging groove on P1 of Jingling Wall
(HS 4b)


Steep moves to a rest.

Spend a while fiddling in gear and wondering which way to go.







Straight up on tenuous moves to a balancy rock over




BP followed up the leftside  and found good holds to pull through leaning corner

Thats the way matey!









P2 equally sustained
BP (upper left) silhouettes his way up the finishing wall.
At lower left




Sundowners at the Local Tyn-y-Coed Inn


Honest pub grub

Hatched plan for day 2
Moel y Siabod (872m)
Sunday arrived warm.  Sport plan fine tuned for ease of access maximum climbing minimum slogging and optimum challenge.  Headed for the far reaches of Tremadog and the welcoming rock of the wonderfully named
Pant Ifan

L-R
KTM HS4a
Mistook VS4c
Gwynedd VS4b
MTN S4a


AT mincing about below the hard moves on Gwynedd




Hand jams and foot smearing above good gear leads to a big PHEW and more gear.

Kettle boiling.



 The crozzly wall on Mistook offers small sharp pocket holds






Last gear in before heading left to make improbable shapes up the impending groove


Brilliant



All sorted


Stake belays make life easy on all the routes



AT despatches yet another groove on Bulging Wall

HS4a


Delightful climbing up the rough rock of the finishing wall.


Offsets rule today



BP on MTN (S)


BP gets ready to finish things off - a cracking day

Easy access √
User friendly √
Some shade √
Enough challenge √
No crowds √
All requirements fully met!

Dark clouds are out of shot.  Made it to the pub just as the deluge hit!

Monday
Slept in.  Made it down for 8.45 and a belting black pudding and bacon breakfast by our host Eirian.  (No beans)


BP hatches an eggcellent plan for another quality day.  A short drive and ten minute walk then plenty of climbing to do before an afternoon getaway at

Tryfan Fach
 Those big Tryfan routes look a long way away, glad we don't have to get up there!


Must be sixty degrees of freedom on the whopper slab




Route 1
Route 2

Route 1 (L) proved a bit tense in approach shoes, got an embarrassing attack of the dropsies whilst fiddling on belay.

Oops.




BP working a way up Mossy Slab

Mosslessly misnomered

Long pitch, had to move together for 4m or so.




AT follows, getting familiar with the Scarpa shoe friction on the superb rock.

Surprising how well the crag has weathered the decades of traffic.

No grooves today!


Route 2 finishes off all the fun.

A megga pitch with a run out middle section

Spicy, but great





Climber below had just been told she'd no more rope....

CymRu Rules!

SO MUCH MORE TO DO

More pics here
 


Drive times
Out
11.00 am - 14.10pm
Return
14.30 - 17.40

Accommodation
Bryn Glo







Friday, 8 June 2018

Gait Thrashing

The weather window holds open.  Very settled conditions for several days across the NW.  Aimed for a re-run at Swirl Crag, in the end followed CB suggestion of exploring new venue up beyond Wrynose to the numerous outcrops known collectively as
Gaitkens

Crag took some finding, eventually figured out how to enter grid reference into OS App and tracked it down.  Arrived at upper tier (640m) after 2 hour walk in.

2.2 miles 335m of ascent, including time getting lost, dazed and confused.

Ascent - blue track
Descent - orange
Blue flag - upper
Red flag - lower buttresses



Eventually the upper buttress revealed itself

CB still keeping up a strong gait on arrival at Diamond Wall



Snecklifter at MVS 4b offers a thoughtful opener on impeccable rock.



After AT's pleasant Severe CB spied this line and popped up there

About 4c to start, 4b finish







V remote location






Headed down and across to the lower tier

Passed by the Thrice Claimed Buttress offering a range of grades HS, VS, HVS, E2 and E3 all 10m



Dream Buttress reveals some easier routes at about 18m

AT's line shown
Paul (S)




Finally at the Furrowed Brow sector

CB leads Faulty Tower (HVS 5a)

The 2m pillar at half height seems semi detached




Two bongs and a good sling take care of the finishing moves

Positive holds out right make an exciting and steep finish


Walk out 55mins from here.


Adventurous day out!

 What a rocker!

Thursday, 7 June 2018

Birthday Already

June 5th 2018

It soon comes round!

Trip out West
Walk
Sun Inn Lunch
Avanti coffee and ice cream



GLORIOUS











At Avanti's