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Wednesday 16 April 2014

Cracking the Easter Egdges

Tuesday 15th April
Stanage
Heaven Crack S4a (AT)
Balcony Buttress S4a (BP)
Scoop Crack HS4b (BP)
Amazon Crack S4a (AT)
Louisiana Rib VS4C (BP)
Right Twin Chimney VD (AT)
Hell Crack VS4b (BP)


Unknown climber in a sensational position making last few moves on Balcony Buttress, a great Severe at the very top of the grade.

Scoop Crack - crux

Jam, step up left, reach, rock over.
Then...
Retreat and let today's go-to climber finish the crux sequence with a high stepping rockover back right.


BP on the finishing wall on Louisiana Rib,
A delicate full value VS4c.
The bold middle third protected on the right by a big bong, a large wire and a good friend.  Still quite bold!







Amazon Crack

Tough start

Great gear all the way


Padding up Right Twin Chimney
Good gear coming

Heaven Crack to left, then Louisiana Rib
Climber(?) still on Hell Crack, (using gear for aid) after we had topped out, coiled rope, walked off, racked off, packed up, snacked up, and walked out

Mr P can't believe how smug it feels to see the guy struggle!

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