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Thursday 6 August 2015

Peak Flow

Wednesday August 5th

CB in the loop for a day, bad weather north and west so headed to Peak.  Contacted CB's wrinklies and grumpies gang en route - they were heading to Willersley - some hardish limestone further south near Matlock - too far for us.  Landed at Burbage North but wind pretty strong up the valley so detoured to
Lawrencefield
- much more sheltered and only us there all day!  Mentioned to CB that I thought I was going quite well... me and my big mouth! So submitted myself to whatever Mr B had in mind and set my sights on mere survival......

As expected it turned out to be a day of fairly big numbers, a couple of false starts but no falls or rests, mission accomplished!

Disclaimer - not all the pixels in the following pictures were captured co-temporaneously. Some may have been moved about under a fully qualified artistic license.  Others may have been imported from elsewhere or transported from the past in the interest of creating some sort of record (however unfaithful) of the day's goings on,



Pulpit Route

Off to a sympathetic start with a nice VDiff to loosen us up, a long first pitch and a short wander to a finish up a steep little wall


....only for the ante to be upped pretty quick

Meringue HVS 5a

Limited gear but CB found the crucial placements.  Slippery start (oops), technical moves, crux at top
A climber on Tyrone HVS 4c
(From the Gunter Vaults)

Had a bit of a sustained gibber before committing to the steep finishing moves - lived up to its name.

(Climber on left about to launch into this sequence)
A lot of dispute on UKC about the grade but who cares!

Other usual suspects in action back in May


CB said something about an E1 5b would "get me tuned up" to tackle the leaning route on the right.  Who am I to argue?

CB seems to be going well on Great Peter (E1 5b) having managed the optional 5c start with some difficulty.

Higher up a few mutterings started floating down, this didn't bode well for 5b virgins


AT internal dialogue something like...

"Hit that side pull...!
Rock up!
Breath!
Hang that crimp!
Sort those feet out!
Err???
Teeter up.....!
Twist that fingerlock....
Err???
BREATH  FFS!"

Repeat for 15m or so.



Chuffed....
but
"tuned up"......?!!?

More like blown up

Anyhow moving a few metres rightwards onto.....
Great Harry
Another compelling line

As expected this turned out to be a bit of struggle, at least up to the ledge just above half height.

CB came up to belay there and provide close up counselling

Very exciting finish just right of the little overhang top centre
© GermanAlex,UKC


Delectable
Variation

Last gear here



Then a surprising traverse before up to finish in a brilliant position



Another view

© andybirtwistle UKC
Another ab in the bag....

Pretty intense day out there! Cheers CB






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