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Saturday 1 October 2016

Collar Heughly

Thursday 29 September
As forecast the day dawned bright and with a big wind.  Peak Edges definitely out, considered Corby's but in the end kept going to:-
Kyloe 
(Collar Heugh)
Hoping that the trees and natural lie of the land would limit the buffeting.  In good company with a group from a school in Ponteland.




CB gets suited up for an excursion up Gagarin's Groove (HVS 5a) on Space Buttress



The bulge was turned on the right
(left much easier but CB will have his way)

The crack takes two bombroof medium wires

CB gets them in



The groove is off vertical but

positive edges lead up to a juggy finish with another bombroof big wire going in.

I've eyed this route for 15 years it's great to get it done

Brilliant
Gagarin done
Up for a Spacewalk



CB gets a good sling on spike, but there is nothing after this

Turn on the anti-gravity and float out left




Then step round onto the front face

CB steadies himself before lighting up the boosters to power round the finishing bulge.

Awesome

AT follows after a fashion
(should have called him
Laika )



This route followed by retro grade onto Wilfred Prickles at a mere HVS 5a

Managed to get up that one
Although arm power now on the red line

Photo © JDal UKC with thanks


Back on the lead

The wind was really wild here on Flake Crack
(S 4b)

Very difficult to commit to crux moves with a hooly in the head

Got there eventually with some subtle encouragement from CB

The effort drained whatever was left in the tank

Three more favourites still to do!


CB Slab and Wall VS4c, direct no moves left


AT struggles to follow up with cramping hands


Fired the retro grade and found some flow on Mo at S4a

Then....





Deception Crack HS 4b **
One last Hurrah!

Deceptively good footwork


AT recovers some reserves and form to follow no drama


 All the right routes
Not necessarily in the right order
All grades as per UKC
(Wilfred Prickles up from VS! holds snapping off)








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