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Sunday 14 August 2022

Loughing it

 Saturday August 13th

Temperatures now in the late twenties.  Wish we were.  Home alone for the weekend so a big day up a big mountain crag out west had been mooted.  The prospect of the long drive on packed roads into the busy Lake District, plus tricky parking and a sweltering long walk in led to a rethink.   How about an easy drive with guaranteed parking to a nice shady crag?  Where else but;

Crag Lough

Eight a.m. start and a nine thirty arrival.  A great drive started under blue skies then later featuring wondrous atmospherics, with views across to an east coast blanketing in thick cloud, then swirling mists with sun burning through in the Tyne Valley.   Walked in (25 mins) and wasted no time getting stuck into AT's pre-prepared hit list (thanks to BP for introducing this concept!)


No sign of Robin or Maid Marian


Starting out on Face Route 


A very pleasant climb (at S4a) and is surely worth a star given the airy traverse to the finishing cracks.




Can't believe it's seven years since the last visit, on a similar hot day.  See here for details. 
Here's BP in action higher up the route on that trip.




CB found guide left behind at foot of next route.  Open at this page featuring none other than..........??





CB below the crux of Route One 
(HVS 5a)

The first ascensionist (whoever it was) showed no imagination for naming this compelling line.

Scorpion an obvious contender.


AT has a rest after a bit of toe jamming up the corner

More work needed on that particular technique (see later).









The top of the route features an airy belay off two bomber slings.




Pinnacle Face (VS 4c) is just round the other side of same buttress.

CB dips some chalk before launching up the crux


A hidden hold deep in the cleft helps the move onto the main face, CB cruising up the final five metres.

Loughly climbing.



Meanwhile another pair go roamin up Hadrian's Buttress.

A legiondary route.


AT on Jezebel Direct.  The obvious leaning corner succumbs to solid toe jamming technique and awareness of small but useful holds.

Unfortunately AT was missing both of those and had a rather desperate struggle.  CB helpfully pointed out the one useful foothold and things went better second go. 




Another solid belay up in the hades of Hadrian heat..


Time for one more, to save on the walk down and the lumpy track back to the sacks they were carried up the climb.

Bit like climbing in the Alps.  Apart from the scale.



A really brilliant middle section higher up.





The refreshments in Corbridge were particularly welcome, what a great day on and off the crag!

Red hot white boy blues









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