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Friday 16 September 2022

The Peel Deal

Thursday 15th September
  Back from the Riviera to the Côte D'Arlington.   Missed a week on the crag but time to squeeze in a day out, a quick confab with CB and we settled on a return to the quartz dolerite of the Great Whin Sill at;

Peel Crag

A 90 minute drive and a short downhill walk led us to a start climb time of 10.35.


A NW breeze, much cooler than our last trip here a month ago



AT sets off up Meridian (S) - the route crosses Sunset Buttress diagonally right to left.

Should have headed left at this point to join Twin Cracks but couldn't find the move.

The crucial hold was discovered later by CB, hiding behind that bush.





Cue a mini epic up the red line. 

This route now known as "Meanderin" (S)






CB takes a rare turn to lead Sunset



Some excellent positions in between ledges lead to a fine finish up and left

Still gets Severe.

AT wonders what the Greeks ever did for us on Ulysses (VD)



Very amenable slabby climbing, not all that common at this venue






The finish provides plenty to write home about

CB ups the ante with an excellent lead on Jester (VS 5a)

The overlap is no laughing matter but succumbs to a fine layback sequence.

AT follows without (much) drama.


Saving that for the next route.


The lower third of Overhanging Crack (VS 4c) demands precise footwork to make things stick whilst moving up on small holds and side pulls.

A  #6 finds a good home


A few seconds after this image AT's efforts failed to meet the required standard and gravity took over.





Single point of failure (arrow)

Fortunately, the protection is excellent.  As is CB's click-up belay technique.

Nice to know the system works Wing Commander!



Back on the horse and things go much better second time round


After an awkward foot swap the base of the jamming crack can be gained with a tricky move rightwards.

Good gear and solid jams take care of things for a while.

AT looks at the RH finish 

CB suggests hand and toe jamming up the 2m finishing crack on the left

OK Boss!



AT amusing himself trying to get the 360 cm sling into some sort of shape.

That elephant's head of a boulder made for a walloping belay!


A tough route to finish.
Tiger's Overhang VS 4c
And the rest!

If Jester is VS 5a then this grading is a joke.  AT needed more than a tight rope to follow. (Should have read this from the previous attempt).

"For future reference, commit to the rh high foothold and reach for the good spike handhold"


I
I wish I could climb
Like CB
CB can climb

But we can hold it together
Just for one day

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Think l’ve done some of those routes with CB many years ago. Nice to climb with a legend. Jim